Bachelors and Bowery Bums
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BETA PHOTO: Bachelors and Bowery Bums
A more sustained version of its neighbor to the left, both on the slab start and on the steeper section above. Non-obvious crux move.
10 feet up and right from the start of Yakapodu.
Did not lead the route, but it looked like the crux could only be protected with thin grear below.
BETA PHOTO: Here is my humble beta of BBB, look at the impress...
By Josh Brown
Jul 13, 2015
Aghetie is correct about needing to protect the crux (thin flaring tips crack before the square ceiling) from below. Unless you had small offset cams/nuts nothing will seat in the crack leaving you to commit to a fall if you blow the moves to gain the top of the right facing corner. I convinced myself a #4 BD nut was good enough and wound up taking a 20 footer onto the ledge bruising my calcaneus pretty badly. Definitely going to track down a #3 offset mastercam once I heal up. Having just sent Mr. Clean I was complacent and quickly got my ego checked.
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Jul 5, 2016
Excellent route, felt a bit stiff for 5.7. more like 5.7 ++. Gear beta: there is a bomber larger nut placement right in the middle of the wall about as high as you can reach, about 2-3 feet to the right of the crux corner side pull move at the first roof thing in the big right facing corner. its easy to overlook when focused on the crux to the left.