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Medlicott Dome, Right
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YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a X

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a X [details]
FA: John Bachar & Dave Yerian, 1981
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 20,471
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 2, 2008

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  • Description 

    P1-5.11c/.12a Head up the ramp at the left end of the B-Y ledge for a ways, then climb easy knobs up to the base of the prominent black streak, reach from the horizontal to clip a bolt. V3/V4 boulder problem, and all that that implies about the grade, gets you established above the bulge, clip another bolt. continuous 5.11- climbing gets you to a left facing flake that would take a .75 camalot, I believe. Follow the flake to the anchor. Relatively well protected, though pounding into the slab would not be pleasant.
    P2-5.11a Steep right off the belay and clip a bolt, no factor 2 falls. Look up, compose yourself and set off on through the slightly overhanging sea of knobs passing 3 bolts in 120' on the way to the next anchor. One of the BEST pitches ANYWHERE, if this was on East Cottage and had 6 bolts you would have to wait in line all day just to get on it.
    P3-5.10d Less steep that the previous 2 pitches with hard moves right off the belay and again the last 10' before getting to the horizontal. Traverse right about 30' to the next anchor, using stoppers and thin cams to protect the traverse.
    P4-5.8/9 Climb the flared, knobby, lichen covered (doesn't pro real well) crack to its end and a 1/4" bolt. If you have the luxury of an old, old Tuolumne guide book then you will see that it says to traverse right into a left facing corner, I instead headed straight up from the 1/4" bolt on terrifying flaky way more runout slab climbing to the top. Needless to say I don't have a very good description for the end of the route.

    • I would recommend rapping after the first 3 pitches as it did not seem that the top got done very often and it saves you from having to carry shoes for the descent.
    • I really felt that the first pitch involved a V3/4 boulder problem and one other person I talked to that had lead the pitch agreed, perhaps the first pitch is actually 5.12a, but for now I'll leave it at 5.11c since that is so much better than the original 5.10+ rating.
    • If you can get through the first pitch the second should be doable.
    • The bolts are beefy, not 1/4"ers (until the 4th pitch) and the 2nd and 3rd pitches have bolts pretty much right off the belays, so perhaps R/X or even R is more appropriate or maybe E5 6a. . . I think?
    • The second pitch is a true standout


    Facing Medlicott Dome it is on the right hand side and follows the very prominent black streak all the way to the top. The route begins just to the left of four or five shorter bolted sport routes.


    6-8 QD's or slings, stoppers and cams to .75 camalot for the first 3 pitches, full rack to #3 camalot if topping out.

    Photos of Bachar-Yerian Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bachar-Yerian pitch two
    Bachar-Yerian pitch two
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bachar-Yerian, By Kevin Powell, 90s
    Bachar-Yerian, By Kevin Powell, 90s
    Rock Climbing Photo: chase leary and cruz mclean climbing
    chase leary and cruz mclean climbing
    Rock Climbing Photo: BY
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bachar-Yerian pitch one
    Bachar-Yerian pitch one
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route is clearly seen between the trees.
    BETA PHOTO: The route is clearly seen between the trees.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Thanks dave and walleye
    Thanks dave and walleye

    Comments on Bachar-Yerian Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
    From: ABQ, NM
    Mar 4, 2009
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X

    I guess there are two ways to view it, there is the story of Scott Frye? hanging at the belay cowering while Shipoopi broke a knob off and started to barn door on the 3rd pitch before the horizontal. The other side is that I know someone, who while they probably did not belong on the route broke an ankle taking a 60+ footer for a second time, on the second pitch I think.
    By john strand
    From: southern colo
    Sep 29, 2010

    I believe the f'a was '81 NOT '87
    By Andrew McLean
    From: Colorado
    Nov 10, 2010

    Cool short film of a recent onsight:

    By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
    From: ABQ, NM
    Nov 10, 2010
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X

    I like the belay anchor on top...
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 16, 2011

    What is the aspect of the climb? Does it get sun or shade in the summer? Would it be doable in July or too hot?
    By J. Albers
    From: Colorado
    Feb 16, 2011

    Medlicott more less faces west; thus you get shade in the morning hours. If you cruise it early, then summer is probably fine. Otherwise, the best time of year is fall when the temps cool down a bit.
    EDIT: Adam, you should also keep in mind that the mosquitoes can be brutal up in Tuolumne until the snow melts and things dry out a bit (usually by late July to early August depending on the snow year).
    By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
    From: ABQ, NM
    Mar 2, 2012
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X

    One thing is for sure, it will be less crowded than the gash. Wear long-sleeves and pants to combat the mosquitos. DEET is always effective too, if you are into that, in my experience the herbal stuff is worthless. Once you are on the walls the mosquitos leave you alone for the most part.

    If it is really too hot in Tuolumne you can always head to Mt. Conness, Speed of Life, Third Pillar of Dana, etc.
    By Jon Clark
    From: Philadelphia, PA
    Sep 10, 2013

    I have to disagree with one point in Lee's otherwise excellent description. I strongly not recommend rapping after climbing the first three pitches. The final pitch is part of the experience. The climbing is not trivial, nor is it easy. If you rap after pitch three you'll rob yourself of a full ascent. The summitt is pretty cool BTW.
    By bumbum
    Dec 26, 2015

    if you rap after pitch 3, it doesn't count

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