||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c C2+ [details]|
|FA: ||Jacob Warren, Mike Stimola: Aug 2015|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||SE facing|
|Page Views: ||305|
|Submitted By: ||jakobi on Aug 21, 2015|
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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This is a striking path that ascends the SE face of the Shabazz Palace. The route essentially follows three cracks which open and shut; when one crack closes another opens up allowing further progress. Some soft rock is encountered but for the most part is pretty good. There are several roofs to be negotiated and the entire route overhangs 30 feet or so.
P1: Ascend the crack system through some soft rock passing a short roof. Above the crack pinches shut- I hammered two pins here but subsequent ascents will likely go clean. Switch cracks out right and ride it up and through a wild roof. Make another crack switch above the roof and continue through mostly straight-forward aiding to a two bolt hanging belay. C2+/A1
P2: Follow the crack off the belay until it closes and switch out left into another crack, follow this up making yet another crack switch back right, continue through a small roof to a two bolt belay at a small stance. C1+.
P3: Easy aiding off the belay to another crack switch and another short roof. Climb into a slot and aid around the spooky coffin block, clip a bolt out right and manage through some technical sugar to reach the cleft below the summit. Easy free climbing leads to a nice flat summit and a two bolt anchor. C2/5.4.
One double rope rappel with 70m ropes from the summit to the ground.
A triple set of cams with many extras in the finger range and at least one #4 C4, a double set of C3's, a set of micro offset stoppers. Bring a couple of Lost Arrows. A set of offset Aliens would be helpful. Many Long runners.
By herb crimp
Aug 25, 2015
Nice work fellas! Looking at that crack in the past, I assumed it would take a lot more nailing. Well done.