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Baby Toes, 5.11b
Precision and Power all Rolled Into a Killer, Crimpy Package.
The very last route, on the far right hand side of the Indecent Exposure crag, is one of the very best routes Spearfish Canyon offers at the 5.11b grade. The creative use of crimpers is critical. FOOT PLACEMENTS ARE CRUCIAL! Not a gimmie in any way shape or form.
Sick, but not so sharp crimpy sequences and uber-technical climbing at the bottom (and middle-route areas) leads to a jug haul and a sick flake feature towards the top. Baby Toes is a long route with freaky-fun, pumpy-as-hell moves that would be the evil/bizzaro twin of a route found at The Danks known as Stakes R High And So Am I. What Stakes is to small pockets, this route is to is to crimps, sidepulls and ledges. SICKNESS BEYOND SICKNESS! This route has everything, is continuous in awesomeness, and very good to the very last move. Get on it!
Farthest route to the right. While a direct start may be feasible it is completely acceptable (and common practice) to start at the top of a hill to the left of the climb and traverse in alone the ledge. Use your slack line skills to get to the first bolt and traverse right again to gain the second bolt.
Bring 14 quickdraws