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Baby Steps 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Sam Boyce, Joe Manning 9/11/15
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 206
Submitted By: Sam Boyce on Sep 13, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1

Warning: possible ongoing rockfall after major rockfall event. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Decent climbing on solid rock with bomber gear.
P1- Starts off on the blocky bit to the left of stairway, gain the initial slab (ignore the chains below the roof, they are for a project not yet completed). Its a bit runout, so those unaccustomed to slab climbing may find this the a tad spicy. first bolt is on a ramp feature, mantel past it and walk left to gain the next bolt. 2 face cruxes are separated by a really good jug that you can place gear from. The protruding block at the end of the second move is solid (i couldn't get it to come out with a crowbar) but use it at your own discretion. I yarded on it on lead and Joe followed without using it. Top out onto the slab and head straight to the anchor. 5.10b ****
P2- Head into the obvious dihedral. Bomber finger locks and solid gear brings you to a large block (again i couldn't remove it with a crowbar). Use the bolt, do not use the splitter crack behind the block for what should be obvious reasons. continue up the dihedral and finish on another low angle slab. 5.8+ ***

Descent: rap the route

Location 

Takes a line to the right of the massive nose shaped roof, starts just left to the start of stairway.

Protection 

4 bolts + SR with grey/blue metolius (protects crux), #4 is helpful in P1


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