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West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock TR 
Atom Smasher S 
Baby Sitter T 
Break on Through T 
Break On Through to Chianti T 
Chianti T 
Clear-a-Sill T 
Cruisin' for Burgers T 
Ein Kluck T,TR 
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 
Gibbet, The T 
Incarnation S 
Jimmy G T 
Long John Wall T 
Next to Nearly T 
Rictus T 
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 
Shock Of the New T,TR 
Strawberry Shortcut T 
Sunshine Wall T,TR 
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 
Unlead, The T,TR 
Unsaid, The T 
Uranus T 
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 
Washington Irving T 
White Rabbit T 

Baby Sitter 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Mike Brooks, Jim Foster, 1982
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Eric Klammer on Feb 4, 2015

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Brian mid-traverse on Baby Sitter (5.9 PG-13). Not...

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  • Description 

    A short but clean panel of stone lies just right of the initial Strawberry Shortcut corner. This route climbs the right side of the wall then traverses left along the horizontal crack system twenty feet up eventually meeting and joining the right-facing corner of Strawberry Shortcut for a few final feet to the large ledge above.

    Protection can be tricky and difficult to place, and it is required at short intervals to keep the leader off of the ground just below. Thin, knotted slings make work well stuffed into the obtuse, oblong pockets along the last half of the crack. Double rope technique is suggested for the safety of the follower.

    While short, this route is sustained over the traverse and will get you pumped if you hang out too long fiddling with gear. This is not a route to seek out on its own, but it makes for a fun alternative start to Strawberry Shortcut or any of the routes off of the Washington Irving ledge.

    Location 

    Locate the clean wall with a horizontal crack system splitting it just right of the initial Strawberry Shortcut dihedral. Climb it.

    Protection 

    Wires, small cams, and knotted slings(?).


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    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 4, 2015

    Fun climbing over a short distance. Very pumpy in its current state as the wall has a good amount of lichen on it rendering your feet pretty useless for the last half of the traverse. If 5.9 is towards your limit, you may have to decide between getting pumped placing weird, tricky gear and maybe falling on it or placing little gear and just going for it!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Dec 6, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

    Maybe R not PG-13, because the crux is getting up there, you could fall before you get gear, and if you do fall, the landing is bad.

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