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Ass Over Teacup S 
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Baby Jr. Gets Spanked S 
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Baby Jr. Gets Spanked 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 2,649
Submitted By: Almonzo Wilder on Jan 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (84)
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Hannah posing halfway up BJGS.


An easy climb up the black-ish water groove on the right side of Trad Rock. Note: the topo in B. Kerry's book shows this as the right-most climb on the wall. This is no longer the case. A good low-anglw warm-up for anything else on the wall.


6 bolts with chains.

Photos of Baby Jr. Gets Spanked Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: GregC showing off for the moon.
GregC showing off for the moon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Todd K leading BJGS.
Todd K leading BJGS.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading BJGS
Me leading BJGS

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By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
May 20, 2005

The Kerry guide also gives this two stars. I have climbed this route twice. I didn't really enjoy it the first time; but when I came back about two years later, I decided to give it another shot. I still don't like it. Nothing on the climb seemed very intersting, in fact the only thing that I remembered about the route was that the bolts all feel like they are in the wrong spot.

I thought O.K. Corral was much much better. I actually remembered many of the individual moves over the course of two years.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 31, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Only one star b/c it's not something i would repeat but the one redeeming feature is that it's a great 1st lead for someone needing some confidence. Nothing really hard about any of it but plenty of bolts that are easily reachable. Great for beginner lead.
By Steven Reneau
Apr 19, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

From the ground, the climb is ~95 ft long, with 7 bolts. Long scramble to the first bolt.
By mikehilbert
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 25, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

With all due respect to Daryll Allen, I feel compelled to disagree with his comment on this being an ideal 1st lead. This climb isn't incredibly difficult, but it seemed a bit sandbagged to me at 5.6 (felt more like a 5.7) and there are a number of cruxes going up headwalls/bulges with significant ledge fall potential below each crux. Finally, the runout to the first bolt (although on easy ground if the leader chooses to not do the 5.8 direct start up slab) would spook me if I were a new leader.

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