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Baby Blue 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland '89
Page Views: 7,379
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 10, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (125)
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The art of belaying @ Potash.

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  • Description 

    This route is located approximately 100' left of '30 Seconds Over Potash' on Wall Street. The route climbs a finger crack in a narrow, left facing dihedral. Eight feet below the chains the dihedral vanishes, leaving a splitter finger crack.

    This is a great route for the aspiring 5.11 crack climber. There are numerous face holds and good stemming rests. Excellent.

    Protection 

    A couple #1, #2 Metolius, .3, .4, .5 Camalots.


    Photos of Baby Blue Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb gets a good rest on 'Baby Blue (11-)' on...
    Tony Bubb gets a good rest on 'Baby Blue (11-)' on...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jenny Schillinger about 1/2 way up on 'Baby Blue (...
    Jenny Schillinger about 1/2 way up on 'Baby Blue (...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out Baby Blue
    Topping out Baby Blue

    Comments on Baby Blue Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 30, 2017
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 5, 2003
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Fun route. Beta: Don't try to clip the anchors from the layback and god foothold. There is a flake at the top of the crack, level with the bolts that turns out to be a jug. Go for it. Take a lot of .75' inch cams (yellow HB's or grey/blue microcamalots) 2 1" cams, and 1 each 1.5" and 2". You can sew it up with that rack.

    Too short to be a classic, but certainly good.

    Not a technical 5.11a, but certainly a pumpy one. I have small fingers and did well on locks just to the top. My female climbing parners locked the top too. Fat fingers would make this at the grade, but it will be easier for smaller people.
    By Sergio P
    From: Idaho Springs, CO
    Feb 23, 2005

    when you are really pumped near the top and the crack thins out you might be tempted to reach left and just grab the chains. Don't cheat yourself! The pro is easy and often so just climb the last three feet.
    By Sam Lightner, Jr.
    From: Lander, WY
    May 28, 2007

    I just updated the anchors...
    As this route gets more traffic, it gets further and further from "5.11a". I'd say "a" as in "cat".
    By Mike
    From: Phoenix
    Jul 9, 2009

    I found this route hard for the grade and actually had to hang at the final thin crack. It certainly favors those with smaller fingers. I could barely get my tips in there! Also unlike those posting above, I whimped out and grabbed the chains. Maybe I'm just weak.
    By half-pad-mini-jug
    From: crauschville
    Mar 7, 2010

    Ya Mono, geeeze...
    By Monomaniac
    Administrator
    From: Morrison, CO
    Mar 7, 2010

    lol!
    By Hank Caylor
    Administrator
    From: Glenwood Springs, CO
    Mar 8, 2010

    Linus is the new sheriff de' asshole of Wallstreet. I'm quaking in my boots from his historical perfection..... Thanks for logging on yesterday, for the first time ever, just to freak over a couple of squeezjobs.

    Mono, just get out of the game and give Linus your job.
    By steven sadler
    From: SLC, UT
    Jul 27, 2011

    this is only the second 11a I've red pointed so whether the grade is sandbagged or not i couldn't tell ya. but this is an amazing climb. a number 1 camalot fits nice in the big flare right before the crux and it caught my 20+ foot fall(which was pretty scary because the route is only 30 or so feet tall). the crux can be lie backed but i just finger jammed that top part as well. could only fit the little fingers in but way more fun than liebacking. it's an amazing route.
    By Simon Hatfield
    From: Oakland, CA
    Nov 21, 2012

    Hanging on a tips lock to clip the anchor without grabbing the chain is the crux on this one, a very different route to lead than to TR due to the last couple feet.
    By Jordan Hirro
    From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
    Oct 2, 2013

    . Such a fun route. Definitely have gear to a single 1 BD, and from .4 to yellow and red C3s. Way too much fun!
    By Chandler Hartnett
    Apr 30, 2017

    On Saturday, April 29th, someone took a ground fall from close to the chains. Two pieces (a BD .5 and an orange Metolius) were left on the bottom half of the route. We would really like to get those pieces back to the climbers involved. If you retrieved them, please message me and I can help get those back to their respective owner.

    Also, if anyone has information about how this accident might have been caused (such as damage to the rock above and / or in the flare/pod - where two piece blew), please let me know.

    And thank you to all who helped yesterday.

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