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Babies R' Us 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Bret Ruckman, Randy Farris
Season: Late summer/early fall
Page Views: 1,961
Submitted By: MauryB on Sep 22, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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2nd pitch.

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Description 

This is a fantastic route on clean rock. It is good for a shorter/warmer alternative to the Diamond or a hard man start as an alternative to the North Chimney. It has some solid runouts, but the bolts are where you need them for the hard climbing.

Pitch 1. Smear some delicate slab moves up to the first bolt, clip it, and take a deep breath. Head straight up the obvious weakness, aiming for a pin in a shallow, left-facing corner up and right. Clip this pin, move up and right out of the corner and commit to a healthy, albeit easy, runout to the line of bolts marking the crux of this pitch, ending at a two bolt belay below a roof, 11c.

Pitch 2. Get some thin gear to start in a shallow corner right off the belay, then take another deep breath as you commit to the slabby features leading to the first bolt 20 feet above. A hidden piton below it gives a welcome surprise. The bolts get close together, you know what that means. After the crux, some more engaged runouts lead to another bolted belay, 5.12.

Pitch 3. You guessed it, another runout to the first bolt (much easier than the first two)! Follow the bolts to the crux arete sequence, then venture up the easier crack/ledge system to a single bolt belay, 5.11.

Pitch 4. Step down and right to the corner, then go up to the bolt which is 15 feet straight right of the belay. Climb up into the roof where you plug some bomber big gear (optional #4), pull the lip, and enjoy the moderate cracks up to a fixed belay of stoppers and old tat, 5.9.

Pitch 5. Go up and right off the belay in a shallow, right-arching corner, then go up to a fixed pin protecting the step right into another corner. Gun for the two bolts above on the clean panel of rock. From the final bolt, it looks possible to traverse up and right, we stepped left over the mini-roof and up the flake. Reach onto the ledge and dig those fingers in deep to that grass, exciting! 5.11.

Location 

Locate the largest, most prominent black streak on the lower left side of Chasm View Wall, which terminates at Broadway Ledge. Start just right of this streak gunning for a bolt 20 feet off the ledge system (or snow in earlier season).

Descent: rap the route, skipping the single bolt belay station for pitch 3/4. Doubles felt necessary. Or continue up the right side of the Diamond like a bawse!

Protection 

SR to #3 is adequate. RPs. Optional #4. QDs.


Photos of Babies R' Us Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux pitch of Babies R'Us.
The crux pitch of Babies R'Us.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux pitch....
The crux pitch....
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the crux of P1....
Near the crux of P1....
Rock Climbing Photo: Slab climbing!  Jesse Huey photo.
Slab climbing! Jesse Huey photo.
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 traverse.
P3 traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of Baby's.
P1 of Baby's.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Collett pawing in the crux.
Ben Collett pawing in the crux.

Comments on Babies R' Us Add Comment
Show which comments
By Drew Thayer
From: Denver, CO
Oct 1, 2014

You climbed this in late summer, so it's OK not having the snowfield as a "cheater block"? Looks like an awesome bold route!

Glad the nut anchor is still there. When I rapped into it in June, the nuts were literally lying on an inch of freeze-thawed icy mud-froth, completely out of the cracks. Was quite a grubby mess cleaning the muck out.
By MauryB
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 10, 2014

It was pretty exciting getting to that first bolt, would definitely have been nice to have the snow as a cheater/crash pad just in case!
By Alex Shainman
Mar 31, 2015

For some added historical info...with Mr Ruckman's permission/suggestion, I added that first bolt approximately 15 years ago. I started noticing a trend in the late '90s with the receding "glacial" snow tongue, and this is such a killer route, especially in late season when it's totally dry. It was way more exciting before that bolt was there, when the snow wasn't....
Randy Farris should be included in the FA.
By WadeM
From: Golden, Co
Jul 12, 2016

About 3 parties in the last week have gotten up this beauty. The route is clean and ready to go for summer!
By RandyFarris
Jul 13, 2016

The babies just graduated from high school this year! So cool to see people are getting on this great route.
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 28, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

We unfortunately had to bail after the 3rd pitch due to frigid temps and deteriorating weather, but the first two pitches of this route are a masterpiece of rock climbing! Thoughtful and sustained slab/face with a healthy dose of spice!

The 1st pitch was listed as 11a on our topo and that seemed about right. The 12a crux on p2 is really thin but short and well-protected. It eases significantly afterwards but still keeps you on your toes (literally).

Expect to work a little harder way above your gear if you're on the short side (5'7"), and I thought that getting the small but bomber gear at the start of the 2nd pitch was pretty spicy, but again, I'm short....

I'm surprised this doesn't see more traffic, I thought the first two pitches were on par with the slab/face climbing on Spear Me The Details and Birds of Fire!
By alix morris
From: Estes Park, CO
Jul 20, 2017

Route is good to go! Slightly wet on P4 and P5 but not on cruxy bits. Exciting route but tastefully bolted and runouts on moderate terrain with good holds. PG-13 seems accurate. All hard bits are very well-protected! Highly recommended to get to Broadway!!!! North Chimney looks like choss....
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2017

The route was fully dry yesterday. The climbing on the first two pitches is excellent. The rest of the climbing is pretty good, but the last pitch seems contrived when an easier exit is at hand. The grassy topout was exciting nonetheless. We were glad for the first bolt off the ground on the first pitch.
A single rack to #1 Camalot would be sufficient for this route. Bring some stiff, snug edging shoes (not comfy, bathroom slippers like I did)!
By Nathan Hadley
Sep 3, 2017
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13

The first 2.5 pitches are very high quality and feel sustained with the PG-13 on the more moderate sections. The second half eases quite a bit (with just one short slightly-contrived but very fun 11- bolted section), which is welcomed if you're trying to get to Broadway and continue on to The Diamond. I linked the 3rd and 4th pitch to skip the 1 bolt belay and barely made it with a 60m but had to reach the fixed anchor with a double length!
By Corey Flynn
From: USA
Sep 5, 2017

Radically thin! I thought this route was bold the whole way, even on the 5.9 pitch. Getting to the first bolt requires some faith in one's 5.10 edging abilities, and then it's a full-on vision quest. Bring your best dancing shoes for the crux. YEE-HAW!

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