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(b) North Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coup de Grace T 
East Lark T 
El Dorado T 
El Grandote T 
El Monte T 
El Whampo T 
Elegant Arch T 
Grace Slick T 
Hard Lark T 
Northeast Face East T 
Northeast Face West T 
Northeast Farce T 
Partners in Crime T 
Science Friction T 
Too Biased T 
West Lark T 

(b) North Face Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,394'
Location: 33.76108, -116.68221 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,572
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006


59° | 47°

65° | 51°

68° | 50°

70° | 49°

68° | 46°
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BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock overview, Idyllwild


This is the lowest angle face of Tahquitz Rock. It offers a mix of routes up to about six pitches in length. There are easy routes that follow long crack systems, and are mostly quite well protected. Some newer routes follow the slabs between crack systems. The rock on the lower part of this face is fairly good, but the upper part is rather loose. It’s best to avoid climbing below another party on this face. The longer routes finish on the Northeast shoulder of the rock. Climb up from there on third class rock until you reach hiking terrain at a saddle southeast of the summit. From here, the shortest way back to the base of the face is the North Gully (3rd class). You can also take the trail from the saddle, going clockwise to Lunch Rock, and then continuing along the base of the rock to the North Face.

During the summer, this face gets sun much of the day. In the Spring and Summer, it gets a lot of shade.

Getting There 

Take the North Face trail to the base, or take the main trail to Lunch Rock and traverse left along the base of the rock.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.0 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in (b) North Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (b) North Face:
West Lark   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
East Lark   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
El Whampo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Northeast Face West   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Hard Lark   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Northeast Face East   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   
El Grandote   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   
Coup de Grace   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   
Elegant Arch   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 11 pitches, 1600'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (b) North Face

Featured Route For (b) North Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Alan Busby on Grace Slick at the P2 crux around 19...

Grace Slick 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13  California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : (b) North Face
This climb consists of two clean, runout, low angle face pitches. Rappel back down....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of (b) North Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nathan Fitzhugh at the start of El Grandote. Does ...
Nathan Fitzhugh at the start of El Grandote. Does ...
Rock Climbing Photo: North Face of Tahquitz after a late spring snow st...
North Face of Tahquitz after a late spring snow st...
Rock Climbing Photo: After some balancy face moves off the belay, Natha...
After some balancy face moves off the belay, Natha...

Comments on (b) North Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Sep 7, 2017
Someone should confirm that this boulder is still there or has gone - see here
By David Fogel
From: Lake Forest, CA
Sep 7, 2017
Here is a URL link to see two pictures that Sarah Barron posted (Thanks Sarah). See Link then Scroll down to bottom of page to view.
By Tradiban
Sep 7, 2017
Chris, I'm going up to check on it tomorrow afternoon.
By Sarah Barron
Aug 25, 2017
There is a huge, loose boulder at the top of the exit gully for the Larks, at the western end of the North Face. I've attached 3 photos showing the boulder. This boulder is a feature that anyone exiting this gully will pull on for their exit. When we were climbing on Tuesday (8/22), the boulder rolled forward/down hill when weighted. The first 2 photos are taken from below, looking up at the rock. The 2nd photo is taken from above. Note the new separation of the dirt, at the base. That happened when we pulled on it. You can now see to the bottom of the route through that hole. In the photos, the 9.8 mm rope can be used for sizing perspective.
I've notified Nomad (Idyllwild), forestry & Mountain Project. Please share this post with anyone you think might be in that area. I'll update this post once I have confirmation that the boulder has been (safely!)

By Tradiban
Aug 25, 2017
Can't see the pics. How big is it? We don't really trundle up here. Do you think it's going to stay where it is or is easily pulled down?

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