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B. Middle Cliff Routes

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boaty's Birthday S 
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 
Compound Fracture T 
Family Picnic S 
Flippin the bird T 
Fuck Rumney T 
Golf Ball Sized Urethra  T,TR 
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 
Mountaineers Route, The T 
Traction Splint  T 

B. Middle Cliff Routes Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.38995, -72.84965 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,660
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kris Fiore on Nov 5, 2014
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  • Description 

    The center of the cliff contains a few quality walls. Home to the popular Family Picnic and Father's Day and new climbs of Fuck Rumney, Breaking the Wishbone, Radius, and Ulna.

    Getting There 


    If taking the sugar shack approach:


    When you get to the large clearing, locate a very odd looking and tall stump. It's about 10 feet high. Cut into the woods following an easy contour of land. After a few minutes, trend right until the trees thin out. Trend left looking for a huge highball boulder. Cut into the boulders here and if all goes well you should end under Golf Ball Sized Urethra and , just left of Family Picnic.

    If taking the Timberline approach:

    Follow yellow flagging across the stream and up through the woods staying near the boulders. Don't get drawn to the right away from the cliff where it's a little easier. Be on the lookout for a huge pointed highball boulder. Cut into the boulders here and if all goes well you should end under Golf Ball Sized Urethra and just left of Family Picnic.

    Climbing Season

    For the Bolton Area area.

    Weather station 7.3 miles from here

    10 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in B. Middle Cliff Routes

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for B. Middle Cliff Routes:
    Family Picnic   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in B. Middle Cliff Routes

    Featured Route For B. Middle Cliff Routes
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of a route on one of the more remo...

    Family Picnic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13  Vermont : Bolton Area : ... : B. Middle Cliff Routes
    On par with any of the multi-pitch routes at the 82. Long, steep and thoughtful characterize this fun romp up a nice exposed buttress. start on the left side of a 70/80 foot buttress/pillar of rock in the center of the Main Cliff. The route is unmistakeable, as bolts mark the way. Pitch one is tricky little number with some balance and faith required at the crux. Finish on a nice ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.The 2nd pitch climbs steep rock up past an insecure block (step around it gingerly!!)...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

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