b. Jackie and friends Rock Climbing
Scott Perkins captures a great shot of me on Matin...
Along the Cliff
This popular section of cliff has a wide variety of climbing, ranging from the very-easy (Betty
) to the classic 5.10s of P38
, Stirrup Trouble
, and beyond.
The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey
. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby
: The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby
: Walk-off options are via Radcliffe
and the Uberfall Descent
, and on busy weekend days, are preferable - especially for the Betty
areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.
For clifftop restoration/preservation, there are sets of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie
, and a clifftop set on Classic
-- use these whenever possible.
Weather station 2.8 miles from here
35 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in b. Jackie and friends
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in b. Jackie and friends
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for b. Jackie and friends:
Betty 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Belly Roll 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Jackie 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
RMC 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Dennis 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Miss Bailey 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Jane 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Classic 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Ape Call 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Classy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Jasmine 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches
P38 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Matinee 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Featured Route For b. Jackie and friends
Stirrup Trouble 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PG13 New York
: The Gunks
: ... : b. Jackie and friends
Perhaps a double entendre in the name? I am not sure. A good route with poor gear in places, it is unique. I found this to be a rough introduction to the Gunks.The route starts 15' left of P38, a more-popular climb with better protection. P1: Climb up off of a boulder on unprotected moves (5.10-) to gain a crack, which is climbed to a horizontal. Follow the horizontal left for a few body lengths to a rift in the small overhang and climb up to some roofs above. Wande...[more] Browse More Classics in New York