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b. Jackie and friends

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Top Rope TR 
A-Gape T 
Ape and Essence T,TR 
Ape Call T 
Back Door Betty T 
Badcliff T 
Belly Roll T 
Betty T 
Blackout, The T 
Classic T 
Classy T 
Daydream T 
Denise T 
Dennis T 
Disco Death March T 
Dog Bite City T 
Habanero Balls T,TR 
His Name is called The Word of God. T 
Into Thin Hair T,TR 
Jackie T 
Jane T 
Jasmine T 
Matinee T 
Miss Bailey T 
P38 T 
Pebbles TR 
Pink Laurel T 
Radcliffe Descent T 
Raubenheimer Special T 
RMC T 
Roddy T 
Slightly Roddey T,TR 
Stirrup Trouble T 
Unknown T 
Word of Mouth T 
Unsorted Routes:

b. Jackie and friends Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.73755, -74.18693 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,819
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 13, 2011
Forecast:
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Scott Perkins captures a great shot of me on Matin...

Along the Cliff 

last area: The Uberfall | next area: Frog's Head and The Arch


Description 

Major Features This popular section of cliff has a wide variety of climbing, ranging from the very-easy (Betty) to the classic 5.10s of P38, Stirrup Trouble and Matinee, and beyond.

The end of this section is the major left-facing chimney system of Big Chimney and Miss Bailey. Those routes are just left of the lightning-bolt offwidth crack of Baby.

Approach : The trail along the base of these routes starts just a few feet past the vault toilet ("Uberpooper") that marks the end of the Uberfall section. There is a trail up to the middle of this section just past the Black Boulder problem, and the last few routes are also reached by the trail leading to Baby.

Descents : Walk-off options are via Radcliffe and the Uberfall Descent, and on busy weekend days, are preferable - especially for the Betty and Jackie areas, where many intermediate ledges are strewn with small stones, and unsuspecting newer climbers are often below.

For clifftop restoration/preservation, there are sets of bolts with chains at the ledge above the first pitches of Jackie and Classic, and a clifftop set on Classic -- use these whenever possible.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.8 miles from here

35 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',12],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in b. Jackie and friends

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for b. Jackie and friends:
Betty   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Belly Roll   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Jackie   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
RMC   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   
Dennis   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Miss Bailey   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 150'   
Jane   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Classic   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Raubenheimer Special   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Ape Call   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   
Classy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Jasmine   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches   
The Blackout   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   
Pink Laurel   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Slightly Roddey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
Stirrup Trouble   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
P38   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Disco Death March   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Matinee   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Into Thin Hair   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in b. Jackie and friends

Featured Route For b. Jackie and friends
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Perkins captures a great shot of me on Matin...

Matinee 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  New York : The Gunks : ... : b. Jackie and friends
Two short pitches that are very different in character.From the Uberfall, walk about 2 minutes down the carriage road, until you see a huge left-facing corner and roof. This is the route. It's also 30-40 feet right of Betty.P1: At any other area the grade of 10d would be just fine. A slightly atypical Gunks climb: delicate underclinging. Climb up a short left-facing corner to the obvious, huge low roof, and undercling left. Continue past the end of the roof and ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Photos of b. Jackie and friends Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: In the final alcove on P1 of Pink Laurel
In the final alcove on P1 of Pink Laurel
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Morgan at the Ape Call roof.
Dave Morgan at the Ape Call roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Classic (right) and Jackie (left).
BETA PHOTO: Classic (right) and Jackie (left).
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Betty
BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Betty

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