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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Egoon & John Gratz (1984)
Page Views: 1,746
Submitted By: rock_fencer on Oct 9, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: Handcrack up high in photo.


Readily climbed as one long pitch:
Climb up a slab with eyebrows that eases in difficulty the higher you get. Mantle onto a block and pull some face moves to access the P1 ledge (can stop here). From there climb through a bulge via a short hand crack (crux)to another ledge. Move to climbers right and high step up over the bulge. Trend up and left to a good ledge with tat slung around a hollow flake.


From the standard South Face approach, cut to climbers right following a trail that drops down and back up along the rock. Pass a large chimney and belay at the base of the slab.

2 ropes to get down. As of October 8th 2011 there is some tat around a hollow flake with two 'biners. Bring some webbing and a knife to switch out for fresh tat.


standard NC rack, #2 and #3 for belay at top of P2

Photos of B-52 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: TR set up for the first pitch. (5.8 I believe) Sun...
TR set up for the first pitch. (5.8 I believe) Sun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof on B-52, circa 1990.
Pulling the roof on B-52, circa 1990.

Comments on B-52 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Phoffmann
Sep 11, 2012

Thad Walker and I replaced all the completely ancient tat around that hollow flake masquerading as a rap anchor. I swear that we hacked thru the FAist tat in that mess at some point. In the spirit of the Glass we replaced it with 1/2 static rope rapped in webbing doubled over with two carabiners. It will soon look like it did before we replaced it and a bolt anchor will probably have to go in.
By Cody Ashe
From: Brevard
Jan 1, 2013

Only managed the first pitch so far, but very cool route.
By Bob M
From: Alpharetta, GA
Jun 23, 2013

Bolted anchors at the top of P2 now.
By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Jul 8, 2013

thanks Wes for the bolting job! That should help in people rediscovering this classic gem. -T
By munkeybog
From: Columbia, SC
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Completely overlooked classic.
If it weren't for the 2 large ledges that break up this one long pitch this thing would be the best intro 5.10 in the state.
Heady and safe. Delicate and Powerful. Convoluted and direct.

And thank you to whomever put the bolts on top. That flake, regardless of sling-condition, was brutal.

Long live common sense!
By chummer
Dec 6, 2015

An 80 meter will get you down with one rope. Bring lots of small TCU's for the slab.
By Gustav "Goose" Fredrikson
From: Jacksonville, FL
May 30, 2017

In the summer months, especially in the mornings when some of the other routes bleed and drip with water B-52 stays dry. It's located a couple hundred feet mountain right (skiers left) from the main trail, traverse slightly down then back up through rhododendron tunnel or just follow the south wall until you get to a big right facing dehedrahl then go down a bit. The first pitch goes at 5.8 but can be a little heady if you're not used to the typical Looking Glass slab, protects with small tricams but as usual the eyebrows deceive with their flared cracks. There is a worn blue rap sling on edged rock between the pitches, view is decent but not nearly as good as the rest of the climbs in the area. Could possibly bail via chimney to the climbers left. 60m rope can serve as a good top rope from first pitch.

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