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B-52 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Matt Faning
Page Views: 739
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 28, 2011

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  • South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>
  • Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Climb some relatively easy, but thoughtful, slab to the roof. Milk a half-sit rest and then head into the roof. Some good holds lead up to a large deadpoint/dyno to a sloping edge followed by a core intensive match and then some pumpy 5.12 climbing to the chains.

    Location 

    This is the first sport route climbers right of the large roof crack that splits the roof.

    Protection 

    Mostly, if not all, fixed draws.


    Comments on B-52 Add Comment
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    By Brad Leneis
    Oct 17, 2016

    CONDITION REPORT 
    As of mid-October 2016, the fourth bolt (protecting the crux) is bent -- not the hanger, but the bolt itself. The hanger is also loose, but can't be fully tightened because of the bent bolt. Approach with caution!
    By BrianWS
    Oct 17, 2016

    The same deformation has happened on other routes that go through large roofs (for example, depth charge's second roof bolt). People whip away on these loose hangers, which messes the bolts up.

    Just a reminder that if possible, please be a good steward and tighten any loose nuts hat you find before the hanger is able to move far enough away from the rock for a fall to bend the bolt out of shape.
    By Chris Whisenhunt
    Administrator
    From: Fayetteville, WV
    Oct 17, 2016

    I'm betting it's a 3/8 inch bolt in the roof without loctite on it. If so then it's not surprising. I'd think that half inchers or glueins would be a better choice. Maybe I'll get out there and fix them sometime.