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Trashcan Rock - West Face
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B-1 T 
B-2 T 
B-3 T 
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Bimbo T 
Black Eye T 
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Eschar T 
Eyesore T 
Eyestrain T 
History TR 
Karpkwitz T 
Profundity T 
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Trough, The T 
Tulip T 
Walkway T 


YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
Page Views: 2,057
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 28, 2003

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Lori leading on a cold J-tree day


On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks. From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1.

B-3 is not as fun as B-1, but it's definitely a better climb than B-2. It might be worth climbing if you're new at the game and someone has set a TR for you, or if you've climbed Karpkwitz, since you can anchor the two from the same spot. Probably not worth seeking out for its own sake, though.


Medium to large pieces. Slings for anchor. Descend to the north.

Photos of B-3 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing B-3 5.3 on top rope. Natural anchors are ...
Climbing B-3 5.3 on top rope. Natural anchors are ...
Rock Climbing Photo: a first taste of j-tree rock. The dikes on Tip-Toe...
a first taste of j-tree rock. The dikes on Tip-Toe...

Comments on B-3 Add Comment
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By Blitzo
Sep 10, 2006

Feels harder than 5.3.
By Tavis Ricksecker
Jan 1, 2007

...especially when you're onsight soloing.
By Mark L
Apr 30, 2007

good first trad lead - again not so straight forward and easy as the 5.3 rating would have you believe. I had a buddy climbing 5.9 at the gym that couldnt get through the top part. Good pro options and some jamming practice opportunities. A little on the short side to be worth doing.
By KraigP
Nov 18, 2008

All three of these easy hand cracks are good climbs. Fun to hit early in the morning and run up as a solo session. I definately suggest all three as beginning leads or solos for those looking for low risk climb to really learn on. Lots of places for solid pro. Good place to learn to set up a gear anchor as well
By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Dec 29, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

As a beginner trad leader this and the other B climbs were a lot of fun! Feels a little harder then a 5.3 but not too bad at all.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Jan 23, 2010

Ha! Led this as one of my early leads, with a girl I'd taught to belay about 3 hours earlier. Figured I'd be fine in a free solo mindframe at 5.3, even though I'd never climbed the route before...

...welcome to Joshua Tree!

This climb is 5.3...if you climb weird, off-width sloping cracks that try to spit you out the whole way up.

Don't get me wrong; it's low-angle, and at it's hardest shouldn't feel worse than 5.5 or so, but it doesn't go at the level that most 5.3s go at.
By Gary Schenk
Mar 17, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

A good 5.3 is one that makes you stop and think. This is a 5.3 climb...after you figure it out.
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 11, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I also rated this a 5.4 based on some comparisons on Trashcan Rock. At this level, does it really matter?
By Ben Crowell
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I thought the first 20 feet of climbing were more like 5.4, maybe partly because I'm short. However, the difficult moves are fairly easy to protect, so I would have no compunctions about recommending this as a first-time trad lead. It's relatively low angle, and you can reach up and place pro above the hard parts while standing comfortably on ledges. Good gear anchor possibilities at the top. The walk-off involves leaping across a crevasse deep enough that messing up would be ugly.
By steverett
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 5, 2016

Polished slick; better have good jam technique

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