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Trashcan Rock - West Face
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YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a [details]
Page Views: 2,789
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (130)
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Kai (age 6) taking advice from Dad, while at the c...


On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks. From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1. B-1 is the easiest, but it's also the only one worth climbing. Chimney moves down low give way to fun climbing on patina plates up top.

This would be a good first climb on TR, and a great first trad lead. If you could beat the crowds, that is ...


Hand size and up. Would protect well with just a set of stoppers and a set of hexes if you don't have cams. Anchor to the left of a large overhang up top -- some longer slings helpful.

Photos of B-1 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: One of my fiancee's (girlfriend then) first climbs...
BETA PHOTO: One of my fiancee's (girlfriend then) first climbs...
Rock Climbing Photo: B-1 (5.2) climbs the crack on the right in the pho...
BETA PHOTO: B-1 (5.2) climbs the crack on the right in the pho...

Comments on B-1 Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 19, 2016
By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

Fun beginner solo.
Jack Osbourne climbed it on TV! What a joke!
By Mark L
Apr 30, 2007

good pro placement practice climb and hand jamming practice climb if you ignore the face. Only problematic thing for a beginner is the slab traverse 15' left from the top when breaking down the belay to get to the walkoff.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 10, 2008

Finish directly up through/between the cap rocks (instead of traversing left) for a couple of fun moves of bombay squeeze. (That finish is not recommended if you are TRing, you'll want your rope below the caprock in that case). Probably the best of the "B" cracks.
By Russ Walling
Jan 10, 2008
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

I thought this was at least 5.1c.... Mid to top end of the 5.1 scale for sure. Be safe out there.
By Adam Stackhouse
Jan 11, 2008
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

Russ, not everone has your esteemed 5.6 onsight ability, so leave the comments for the >5.4 community to us regular folk!
By The Gray Tradster
Jan 11, 2008

How hard can 5.1b?
By KraigP
Nov 18, 2008

Definately suggested for first time climbers! This is a fun super easy route with huge hands! Perfect for beginning trad leaders too! Gotta beat the crowds though.
By Thomas Thelen
From: Prescott, AZ
Apr 7, 2009

haha this was so nice to climb after Profundity. It's a really good place to practice building TP anchors.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

A decent climb for a rank beginner. Used it teaching my 10 year old son how to jam.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Mar 7, 2011

Good for the grade.
By Canon
Oct 23, 2011

I've never climbed a "5.1" route, but I would call it harder than the easiest incidental soloing I've done, so I'd call it a 5.3.
By cyrus
From: Menifee, CA
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a

Very good route for beginners and kids. Would be a good route to learn placing gear on lead for the unexperienced.
By Ben Crowell
Feb 18, 2013
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

For people looking for an easy first trad lead at JT, Shardik at Bear Island might be a better choice. Beginners might not want to attempt this without a rack containing doubles of larger cams.
By BrettAtBond
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a

Low angle chimney, sinker hands and jug flakes. Varied, secure, fun climbing. Best of the B-cracks IMO.
By Samir Abdosh
Jul 19, 2016
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

good beginner trad route. i guess 5.1 is fair if you stem/use the features on the broad side, but it seems a little light if you stay in the crack the whole time. echoing the 5.3 rating.

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