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Azucar 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Erik Pikas, Andrea Long 2011
Page Views: 1,013
Submitted By: Erik Pikas on Sep 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Its a sweet roof.

Description 

Short but sweet! Some tricky/ balancy moves up the steep face lead to the massive roof. Clip the bolt at the top of the face then work out the overhang to clip the chain perma-draw. Pull the huge overhang and step up and right onto a ledge. From here you can basically stand up and clip the chains.
An easier variation (called Sweet & Low) goes up the dirty offwidth to the left of the start, and can be protected with a #4 Camalot.

Location 

The first, and farthest left bolted route here. You can see the anchors from the logging road. Start below the massive overhang about 10 feet right of a huge inside corner with a dirty chimney.

Protection 

Sport. 3 bolts to an 2 bolt anchor. It's short, but you won't be disappointed. An optional #4 Camalot protects the easier variation.


Photos of Azucar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Working up into the Azucar roof
Working up into the Azucar roof

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By tk1085
Oct 25, 2012

I Finally got this climb after maybe 7-10 tries. very thin and un-obvious face to very fun roof. with a trade marked butt jam somewhere in the middle it is possible without the butt jam i'm told.

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