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Nearing the top of the Azkaban Jam.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
At the eastern end of The Rad Cliff
is a dark buttress with a prominent crack on its right side. Climb straight up the crack. Be careful passing a loose block about 30 feet up. When the difficulties ease, continue a short distance to a belay alcove where a narrow knobby catwalk leads to the right across a varnished face. The easiest exit is a 4th class traverse about 60 feet to the right to a rappel tree at the top of The Dementor
. A two-rope rappel leads back to the base.An alternative exit is to continue up easy rock for a half pitch to the top of the buttress, then scramble down to the east.
Ordinary rack: finger-size through fists
This is the belay position at the top of Azkaban J...
Overview of the Azkaban Jam crack.
By Jer Collins
Mar 25, 2004
No dementors patrolling this route, I hope!
By Charles Moreton
Nov 7, 2013
Some nice moves but a little care is needed as the rock is a bit suspect in places.
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 20, 2016
This is a super fun route, for the duration of the corner, but there are three things that are less great. 1- the exit right (traverse hard right and slightly downwards towards Dementor rap) means you need to climb with two ropes to avoid a ton of rope drag and a potential big swing for your second. 2- the rock isn't quite climbed clean, though another 100 or so ascents should fix that. 3- The Dementor tree rap is prone to stuck ropes. A couple rap bolts at this crag would elevate it from its second class status.