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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare
Page Views: 219
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Warm up on P1, then think laterally on the next couple of interesting, tenuous, challenging pitches. This is another route that I've only done the first pitch of. It shares the first 2 bolts of Rock Odyssey, then it heads up and right to an independent anchor. The next 2 pitches look good, but I haven't gotten around to doing them.


Fully bolted. Most only do the first pitch at 10c.

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By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 20, 2002

First, it is not closed. You just have to get up the road before 9am or reach it from the Sugarloaf Rd just north of Nederland.

Second, a key hold broke off the 1st pitch on the right-angling traverse bit. There is a fresh rock scar. It used to be a fun 10b. Now it feels about 11c.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002

I concur with Leo: the first pitch used to be a fun 10b, now it's solid 11.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 1, 2003

That explains it! A couple of years ago I toproped this and had no trouble, even though I wasn't climbing that well. Today I hung all over the traverse, trying and failing multiple ways. I finally found a way that worked for me at maybe mid 10. And that is...Undercling the crack and reach up left for a good flake. Move the left foot up higher and stem way right to a decent hold. From there you can reach the good hold.
By Dana Ernst
Oct 21, 2004

Does anyone have any idea what the route is whose first pitch starts to the right of Awakenings and whose upper 3 to 4 (short) pitches are just to the left of Awakenings? It is quite enjoyable and has a few spots of hard 5.10 to easy 5.11 climbing. I think that it may be a Dan Hare route (who else?).
By david goldstein
Jul 25, 2006

P2 is near classic: at 95', it's fairly long for a Boulder Canyon sport pitch and features an excellent progression of difficulty, starting w/ easy slabbing then getting steeper and harder almost all the way to the anchors. If this pitch were at Animal World or Easter Rock, it would see a lot of action and be slathered in chalk; as it is, it could use more traffic, having some lichen and a couple of inconvenient bushes near the end.

From the end of P2, you can lower or rap w/ a single 60m rope or you could do the third pitch, a sparsely bolted 5.9 which tops out.

We took a yellow and a red Alien, using the red (I think) at the start of P2 where there is a big gap between bolts and both on P3.
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Jun 17, 2007

The second pitch of this climb is very dirty, and I ripped off two dinner plates right at the crux, almost hospitalizing my dad (on fathers day no doubt). The first hold I tore off was glued on, but obviously not well enough, and the second was a bit higher- a foothold. I did not think that it increased the difficulty of the climb much, but just to warn climbers of the loose shit.

Too bad cause if this pitch was clean it would be very enjoyable.
By Stephen Nance
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2012

FA: Dan Hare.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Jun 22, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Too bad this route gets bad reviews here. I think it has since cleaned up. The route has a great mixture of stemming and (bolt protected) finger crack climbing @ the crux.

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