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Avon Gorge

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Avon Gorge Rock Climbing 


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Location: 51.4629, -2.6306 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,813
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Sep 1, 2011
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View of Suspension Bridge and Giant's Cave but...

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Description 

The ultimate urban crag, steeped in history and adventure: few other cities can boast such a climbing asset! It really is in the heart of Bristol, a short walk from the centre, cliffs dropping from the open parkland of the Downs to the river Avon below. The city is invisible from the climbs, but unfortunately the A4 is not.

Love it or hate it, this is the reality of urban climbing: you pay for the convenience with traffic noise and communication difficulties (except for the few days every year that they close the road).

Delicate, technical and bold characterises the climbing at Avon gorge. It's a common complaint that "all the holds face the wrong way", and talk of "typical Avon weirdness" is not uncommon. True, it does take a bit of getting used to, but once you do it flows. There is a paucity of strong, natural lines on the quarried limestone faces of the gorge, and a lot of the routes follow much more subtle features: difficult to pick out from the ground but making perfect sense once you're up there.

The rock is quarried limestone, mainly sound but care must always be taken. It seems that no amount of time or number of ascents will rid the walls entirely of their loose holds. A strong trad ethic presides, and bolts are few and far between. Old, rusting pitons provide the sole protection (psychological or otherwise) on many of the routes, and the current like-for-like fixed gear policy ensures that they are never going to be replaced by bolts. However, there is a big movement to replace the mankiest pitons with shiny new stainless steel ones.

Getting There 

Walking:
15 minutes from the city centre, across Clifton and the Downs. There are footpaths/roads running across the top of the cliff and climbers paths descending at various points. Once at the bottom of the cliffs, no area is more than 15 minutes walk from any other

Driving:
There is a small parking area just off the A4 at the base of the Sea Walls, maybe accommodating 15-20 vehicles. This is a busy road so it is easier to pull in if approaching from the North West. Other, even smaller areas can be found at various points on the A4, all on the same side of the road. Alternative parking can be found at the top of the cliff on Circular Road, though parking restrictions apply at most times. Use any of the climbers paths to descend from here.

Guidebooks 

There are now three guidebooks covering this area: the Climbers' Club definitive guide Avon and Cheddar, the Rockfax select guide West Country Climbs, and the new Climber's Club select guide South West Climbs (volume 1).

The former is the definitive guide, and covers all the routes up to 1992, while the latter two are select guides, with less coverage. However, they do have better topos and clearer descriptions and contain more than enough routes for the occasional visitor, and will keep the keen local climber busy for a good couple of years.

Climbing Season

For the South West area.

Weather station 1.6 miles from here

37 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',8],['5.9',3],['5.10',15],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Avon Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Jo nearing the crux on Suspense

Suspense 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Suspension Bridge Buttress
A sustained line towards the left of the wall, Suspense feels slightly harder than it's neighbour, Suspension Bridge Arete, but is well worth the extra effort!The relaxed first 10m are shared with Suspension Bridge Arete, and take you up a pocketed line to a ledge. The next 10m is the crux, with sustained vertical climbing. From the ledge, continue straight up (rather than traversing left as for SBA) following the pockets, and past a large hole. The route merges again with SBA for the last 10m, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Avon Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking out towards Unknown Buttress and Sea Walls...
Looking out towards Unknown Buttress and Sea Walls...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view down Avon gorge from the ramp. Idyllic, i...
The view down Avon gorge from the ramp. Idyllic, i...

Comments on Avon Gorge Add Comment
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By Jordan Collins
From: South Lake Tahoe
Aug 18, 2014
In bristol from now until 26th looking for partners to climb with either here or somewhere else around here. Carless.

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