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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alan Hirahara, 2000
Page Views: 893
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jun 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Upper section of the Aviary, completing the steep ...


Climb up the wall to the left of the obvious corner, until possible to stem the corner and hand jam the crack. The corner is the crux.

After the corner fun climbing on jugs follows all the way to the anchors.


Situated just right of the arete of Sound of One Hand Slapping.


10 bolts, 2 open shut anchors

Photos of Aviary Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux corner of Aviary.
The crux corner of Aviary.

Comments on Aviary Add Comment
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By BAd
Jan 16, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

HuGe fun! The upper section has a lot of overhanging moves on big holds. Go do it.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Sep 14, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Someone stole the carabineer at the anchor, thanks.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 13, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a great climb, but seemed really hard for the grade, especially compared to the 5.8's just down the road at Clark Canyon.
By Scott Rogers
From: Moab, UT
May 31, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The dihedral is the only part worth doing on this route. The rest is awfully poor rock quality, and as is traditional in this area, potential ledge falls while clipping several of the upper bolts.
By BAd
Jun 21, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I going to have to agree with Todd on this one. 5.8 seems a bit of a sandbag for this one. The rock is plenty solid. I've never broken a hold or edge, and the upper overhanging jugs are just great! I love this route, but it probably is 5.9.


PS: We replaced the 'biner on the middle bolt to back up the worn cold-shuts. Leave it!
By Alistair Veitch
From: Mountain View, CA
Jul 23, 2017
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Its no harder than 5.8. Crux move is probably in the dihedral where you have a stem on smaller holds, but you have absolutely bomber hand jams available.

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