BETA PHOTO: Steve Johnson's original description of Avalon...
Avalon is a great high elevation crag featuring some of the best rock quality on the mountain, a good variety of decent quality climbs, and a few gems. It was mostly developed by the late Steve Johnson and friends around 2012. The routes at Avalon tend to be slab-oriented, with the occasional steep, cruxy bulge move. You can get by with just quickdraws (12-15 or so), but a light rack opens up more good terrain. The rock is mostly south facing, so the routes get a lot of sun, but the base is shaded by some majestic evergreen trees so you can stay cool even on the hottest days of summer. As usual, the best details are found in Squeezing the Lemmon III - only about half the routes are listed here.
Park at the summit and follow directions for Rappel Rock. When you get to the saddle directly in front of Rappel Rock - where you would normally drop your bags and head down the left side, you will instead head down a good trail to the *right*. You'll immediately see a large, white, low-angle slab with a few scattered bolts, on your right. This is the far right hand side of Avalon. Follow the trail close to the rock to drop down to the rest of the climbs.
Climbing Season For the 8 - Summit Crags area.
Weather station 4.3 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Avalon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Avalon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Avalon:
Featured Route For Avalon
Unknown 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c AZ
: Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
: ... : Avalon
This climb is listed as "???? project" in Squeezing the Lemon III. It's almost certain that Steve Johnson climbed this - see his post dated 10-29-12 in this thread (ignore the rest of the thread, which is an argument about some other routes at Avalon). At any rate it's a good climb revolving around a hard slab sequence in between the second and third ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
Climb on Mt. Lemmon July 2012
Atop Mt. Lemmon July 2012
By Abby S.
Jul 25, 2016
Thanks for posting, Nick. Nice pictures of the routes!