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Climb any route to get to the large ledge at the base of the obvious huge roof (Avalon/Brokedown Palace) near the left-center of the West face. Of the usual options, Jerry's Kids is the most even and well-protected. Avalon takes the left-hand crack up and out the left side of the obvious roof. The section off the ledge is the crux (11d), with a small fingercrack and face edges leading up to a (surprise) no-hands rest below the roof. The climbing eases here and continues above the roof to a semi-hanging belay. The next pitch (11c) continues above on the nice finger crack, with rests, for 2/3 a rope length to a belay below the choss.
Avalon is one of the finest hard-11 routes on the Tower, with outstanding rock, superb moves, and very good protection.
Numerous RP's, small-mid stoppers, and small TCU's.
Nate A in the thick (or thin) of it.
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Oct 24, 2016
Amazing route! Probably best accessed from Jerry's kids or Up in Smoke, and then moving left before their anchors to the sloping ledge anchor below the big roof. The anchor at this ledge does not look good, but a gear anchor can be built on the right side of the ledge with a variety of gear, medium to large nuts work great.
The crux climbing below the roof comes about 20 feet up and is desperately thin. Protects well though with offset brass nuts and small cams. Cool moves bring you to the roof, which pulls at about 10c, then the climbing eases to 10a or so.
Anchor replaced on 10/22/16. 3rd pitch looks good too at 11c, but I did not do it and supposedly has a pin belay.