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Elevation: 9,851 ft
GPS: 43.71199, -110.80674
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 28,319 total · 139/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Jul 30, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson
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Description Suggest change

Avalanche Canyon is the first canyon south of Garnet Canyon. Popular objectives in the area are Mt. Wister, the rock climbs of Matternaught Peak, and other non-summit routes. On the routes I've climbed in the area (and by all other accounts), the rock has been excellent. Most climbs are approached from points at or beyond Taminah Lake, so a bivy here is highly recommended. There are plenty of routes to occupy a weekend! But apparently the Park Service only issues one bivy permit for the area, though there were multiple parties each time I've been there.

Getting There Suggest change

Park at the Taggart Lake Parking Area. It's on the left, and is the first trailhead you come to after entering the park via the Moose station. Follow the main trail to Taggart Lake and wrap around the lake's north end. Keep your eyes peeled for a trail that takes off to the west as the main trail begins to travel northwest. As of late July '07, this trail was covered with sticks and rocks, making it appear that somebody doesn't want you up there. Disregard these confusing markers and take off on this trail. The trail travels through the bottom of the canyon, and is sometimes faint, log-covered, and bogged out. The destination is always obvious, however, as the canyon is not that wide. Look for helpful cairns in a number of areas. I don't know the mileage, but it takes about 3-3.5 hrs. to reach Lake Taminah.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Avalanche Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 4
● Northeast Couloir to East Ridge
Trad, Alpine
Mt Wister
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
● Taminah Arete
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Matternought Peak > Taminah Arete
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
● Northwest Arete
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Mt Wister
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
● Dem Bones
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Dem Bones Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
● Lazy Bones
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Dem Bones Buttress
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
● Los Huesos
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Dem Bones Buttress
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Northeast Couloir to East R… Mt Wister
 4
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
● Taminah Arete Matternought Peak > Taminah Arete
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
● Northwest Arete Mt Wister
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
● Dem Bones Dem Bones Buttress
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
● Lazy Bones Dem Bones Buttress
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
● Los Huesos Dem Bones Buttress
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Avalanche Canyon »

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Photos

Shoshoko Falls on the way to Lake Taminah in Avalanche Canyon GTNP
Shoshoko Falls on the way to Lake Taminah in Av…
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Greg navigating one of the many debris fields. "Avalanche Canyon" is not just a cute name.
Greg navigating one of the many debris fields.…
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North facing view of the North fork to Avalanche Canyon taken 1/2 mile South East of Shoshoko Falls
North facing view of the North fork to Avalanch…
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The Dem Bones Buttress
The Dem Bones Buttress
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