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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett and Vicki Pelton, 1988
Season: Never
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: john durr on Jan 21, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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This is a very loose and dangerous climb that should be avoided or top roped.

Climb up a steep chimney slot until possible to exit left on very loose face holds and steep hand crack. Trying straight up looks more pleasant but quickly gets super hard.

Continue on very loose ground and creative gear placement to a half out 1/4" rawl drive bolt. Spooge up heady steep face to reach a shallow crack that is better climbing.


This starts up the chimney above the start to the Mental Bankruptcy dike.


A helmet and face shield for belayer! A light selection of TCU's and cams to 3". Include gear that works on shallow flared loose grainy cracks.

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