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Automatic Leg Spreader 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dan Morta
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,409
Submitted By: D@n Morta on Nov 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Looking up at Automatic Leg Spreader.


Easy (5.10) climbing leads to a no-hands rest below the roofed dihedral. Technical stemming and a hidden crimp get you past the first roof and into the crux. Micro-holds and more stemming maneuvers get you to the second roof. Gather your wits for some heads-up climbing and a couple of good holds on the arete with a jug sidepull allows you to clip and pull over the third roof and onto the upper headwall slab. More rests on the upper slab headwall allow you time to contemplate the final crux at the last bolt. Sidepulls, pinches, a sloper, and an optional kneebar will deposit you on the final section of vertical terrain that's pumpier than it looks.


It is on the trail halfway between the Wasteland and Nappy Dugout. This route climbs the obvious dihedral between the Wasteland and the Nappy Dugout.


17 bolts. Chains and steel carabiners have been installed at the anchors. A 70 meter rope is required to lower off this route. The protection for this route was generously provided by the Rifle Climbers' Coalition

Photos of Automatic Leg Spreader Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Automatic Leg Spreader. The route ends at the roof...
Automatic Leg Spreader. The route ends at the roof...

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By D@n Morta
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 11, 2013

In case you were wondering, the route name came from two places: 1) the stemming nature of the route and 2) Nas singing 'Got Yourself A Gun' on Spotify while coming over Vail Pass en route to Rifle.

"Who am I? The back twister, lingerie ripper, automatic leg spreader, quicker brain getter, keepin' it gangsta wit' ya!"
By Fred Bonnard
Jul 21, 2014

Thanks for this great route, Dan, really enjoyed working the moves. Be aware of loose rock while belaying, this route is still cleaning up.
By heppnerd
Aug 16, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great route. Atypical Rifle, climbs like a slab. Super fun, thought provoking moves.
By rick s
Apr 7, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

~ 4th or 5th bolt, you pull over a big hollow bulge. Might be worth crowbarring this thing off only, because a bolt is glued in here, and it sounds like it might come off.

Other than that, this is a solid and great route! A few holds broke that might make it harder.

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