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Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 131
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Nov 5, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Keith on the start

Description 

Powerful, crimpy, shit for feet... sound like fun? Then give this one a try. Sit start the short overhanging face left of the tree and figure out how to get up to the good edge from the available crimps, sidepull, and heinous feet. It will lead you to jugs before a less than straightforward topout.

Location 

On the right side of the Conditions boulder (if facing WHF?) just left of a tree. Downclimb any of the low angle parts of the boulder.

Protection 

Pad


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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 4, 2013
rating: V7 7A+

Bryce-

Do you have any beta for this problem? Such as what holds you started on and general movement? This climb is a bit of a mystery!

Thanks!
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
Sep 6, 2013

I tried for a while to start with the undercling and a right gaston with the intent of bumping right hand up and repeatedly got shut down. I then decided to match the thin crack with a low right foot and a high left foot and dyno to the good crimp up left. Much easier after that. I could only get a few tries in per session before my finger tips ripped off. Whether that was right or not, I don't know, but it felt hard for the grade.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 7, 2013
rating: V7 7A+

Agreed. This problem just seems vicious for a few moves, unless there is something we're both missing. Now that I have some feedback on the start, I'll give it some goes and let you know what I think. Thanks!

I'm sure I'll be asking plenty more questions about problems, so be ready!
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 30, 2014

Where does this problem start? Looked at it today and couldnt figure it out.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 30, 2014
rating: V7 7A+

I started as per Bryce's description in the comments above and that seemed around v7 to me. Starting this way made the problem sort of fun. Starting with the undercling and right hand crimp is very hard, awkward and not fun at all.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 31, 2014

So just so I have it correct you start both hands matched on the chalked flake about a foot left of the tree?
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Nov 16, 2014

Do you start this thing squatting at the crimp rail that is just left of the tree or do you start it actually sitting with your right on the gaston/crimp and your left on the sidepull with no feet? I did it from a squat yesterday and that felt pretty hard still. I don't know if I would say it's a V7 but it definitely wasn't easy that's for sure.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Nov 28, 2016
rating: V8- 7B

The start holds aren't quite as good as you want them to be and the foot is just bad enough that its annoying. The first move is really committing but I kinda like that in a problem. Felt on par with Of Mice and Men for difficulty for me. Hard to put a grade on these one movers. I'd like to see what other people think for a grade. This is where I started the problem.

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