REI Community
The Red Light District
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autocratic for the People S 
Cold Shoulder S 
Cornered Market T 
Dutch Maiden S 
Jacob's Ladder S 
Mammplitude S 
Mrs. Treated S 
On the Side T 
One Hand in my Pocket and the Other on a Stout S 
Pocket Pool S 
Proposition One S 
Size Matters S 
Timeless Christian Values S 
Turnin' Tricks S 
Unknown In Red Light District S 
Vapor Lock S 
Young and the Restless, The S 

Autocratic for the People 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore - 1998
Page Views: 953
Submitted By: yevquest on Jan 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


A nice face route that gets little traffic despite climbing good rock with fun albeit slightly tweaky moves.

Climb the same 4 bolts as Vapor Lock to a huge rest. From here the route is on for the next 20 feet or so. Climb crimps, sidepulls, a sneaky undercling, more sidepulls, all with tricky feet, to an obvious good hold. The last bit is an easy victory romp leading to double ring anchors.

Some of the draws were a little hard to clip. This was my clipping system: From the big rest, easily clip a bolt from the undercling system. The next bolt would be very hard to clip as you're right in the crux. I hung a shoulder length sling from this bolt and clipped from the last good hold before starting the crux. The next bolt I clipped from above once you're out of the business.


From climbers access 2, follow the trail downstream for 150 yards, passing the shorter routes on the ledge. A tall, clean wall is just to the left. Autocratic for the People climbs the plumb line on the left side of this wall, just to the right of the arete. The start is shared with Vapor Lock.



Comments on Autocratic for the People Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About