|Type:||Trad, Sport, Aid, 3 pitches, 300'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1 PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Mark Geikenjoyner, Scott Duemler|
|Season:||faces east- so you could climb in warm months late in day or colder months|
|Submitted By:||markguycan on Nov 18, 2009|
|Comments on Authentic Life||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: flagstaff, AZ
Dec 3, 2010
|repeated this today with Mike Knarzer, we still can't get the top pitch clean, bad bolts were replaced and anchors improved.|
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 3, 2015
I found the P1 traverse to be quite fun yet engaging despite the 7 or so bolts; the only gear I placed was a small purple BD nut roughly in the middle of the pitch. Keep a tight belay at the middle because there is a ledge about 12 feet down you could potentially hit if you peel off in the wrong spot.
P3 was quite hard and the rock is very friable. I broke a few footholds off and there are 2 or 3 crucial patina faceholds that seemed quite solid but if they break this will become much harder. The placements for the crux are generally small, shallow, and flared. Small nuts, offset nuts, TCUS, C3s, and even offset cams could be useful. I was able to get the lower boulder problem after a few tries and it's probably 12b/c. There is a sidepull jug rest after the boulder problem but the pitch is definitely not over yet. I'd bring whatever small stuff you have and then singles of .5-1. A nut tool is also very helpful for scraping out the sand for gear placements.
The route is more North/Northeast facing than East facing. The upper part of P2 was a little damp and mossy when we did it.