Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Austabotntind Massif
Select Route:
Austabotntind Traversen T 

Austabotntind Traversen 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 8', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Andrews, Berge, Williamson 1899
Season: Summer
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on Sep 15, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Mia after the traverse to Søre

Description 

This is a link-up of the Austabotntind massif's 3 major peaks (Søre, Vest, Store).

From the parking approach the south ridge by first hiking up the short knoll and then dropping down into the bowl below the massif. The west ridge heads off to your left. This is your descent. Cut across the drainage for the glacier in the bowl and start talus hopping. Continue for a long ways, gaining about 1500 feet.

You can tell you have arrived at the climbing proper because the exposure along the easiest path becomes intense. Rope up when uncomfortable.

Proceed over the small pinnacle in your path, and down the other side, utilizing the rap slings on the summit if that is your wont. Scrap together a reasonable belay on the slab for your follower. Good luck.

Now you proceed up and across the slab to the right, with some simulclimbing if necessary. (~70m pitch to good ledge). Find the path of least resistance. There is ok protection to be had. Exposure is massive.

From here, wander up the easy ridge to the summit of Søre. Rock is poor, and exposure is deadly, so unrope at your own risk. This is the last portion we roped up for. Gaze with awe upon your future.

Now walk along the highest point in the ridge to Store. This ridge is sidewalk width for most of the way, with some up and down to be had. Rope optional, but falls will be fatal.

You know when you have arrived at the summit push. From here you can go more or less straight up at a difficulty of ~5.7 with some variations. We took an easy path out right to what the book described as stacked blocks. Pick your poison. The below description describes the route we took.

Do a short traverse down and right to a ledge system. Choose a system of stacked blocks to teeter up. I believe the farther right you go along this ledge, the better time you will have. Not too far, of course, maybe a hundred meters. I can say that if you try to go up the couloir/drain that we ended up in (you won't miss it), you will regret it. The first part is easy, but escape becomes impossible as the wetness increases, and looseness becomes nearly unmanageable. It also becomes as close to vertical as this route gets. I recommend going to the right of the drain and wandering up from there. If anyone has experience with another variation, please let me know.

After a few rope lengths (we soloed, so not sure on length), you'll find yourself on the summit ridge. Walk to the right to find the true summit, a few stacked blocks with a small cairn on top. It will definitely be either 2 or 3 summits to your right. You'll probably realize which one when you get there.

From here, return to your point of ascent, but go down the opposite side of the mountain back towards the west summit along a vague ridge. There are a few cairns at the start point of this descent. If it gets more difficult than 5.2, reconsider your choice. Eventually you will find yourself on easy ground and soon will climb back up to the West summit. Your technical difficulties are over, just walk down the west ridge back to your car. Ignore your knees' screams of pain.

Location 

Check out the map. It's the big traverse. If you can't find the mountain I can't help you.

ut.no/tur/2.1996/

Protection 

Small, varied traditional rack... all sizes to #3 Camalot recommended.


Photos of Austabotntind Traversen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing up to the pinnacle before Søre. Follow t...
Climbing up to the pinnacle before Søre. Follow t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Back towards Store from Vest on a snowy day.  Yell...
Back towards Store from Vest on a snowy day. Yell...

Comments on Austabotntind Traversen Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -