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(8) Golden Valley
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Around the Corner S 
Aus der Traum S 
Black & Tan T 
Black Faced Man S 
Black Gold T 
Black Magic Woman T 
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Convenient S 
Dragon's Back S 
Dragon's Nose S 
Dripping Dragon S 
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I Love Taiwan T 
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Kevlar Vest T 
Never S 
Nugget T 
Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 
String Bikini T 
Teamwork S 
Very Inconvenient S 
Warm-up 1 T 
White-Faced Man S 
Yosemite Crack T 

Aus der Traum 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: EB & DS, '00
Season: north facing
Page Views: 28
Submitted By: greg k on Feb 17, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Bolts Are Failing! MORE INFO >>>


pull a couple of cruxy moves at the start before ledging out about 15 ft up. continue through blocky section for another 15 ft before enjoying laybacks and jams on flakes to the anchors. gear is plentiful: would be safe trad lead for novice. we did the variation start on the right. left start is easier according to guidebook. (bolts mar the aesthetic of an otherwise pretty weaknessÂ…)


dragon boat wall just left of yosemite crack


nothing bigger than a red camalot. use same anchor as for yosemite crack.
316 steel (2012)

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By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

You can start this route from Teamwork and step right, from Yosemite Crack and step left, or boulder straight up the bolt line to the ledge (5.10+).

Continue straight up the obvious hand crack (10-). The long diamond-shaped flake near the top is completely detached, but is wedged into the crack. Don't place gear in it and it should be fine.
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Oct 5, 2014

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