Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
(8) Golden Valley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Around the Corner S 
Aus der Traum S 
Black & Tan T 
Black Faced Man S 
Black Gold T 
Black Magic Woman T 
Conditional Reality S 
Convenient S 
Dragon's Back S 
Dragon's Nose S 
Dripping Dragon S 
Gold T 
I Love Taiwan T 
Inconvenient S 
Kevlar Vest T 
Never S 
Nugget T 
Stephen's Size 13 Shoes S 
String Bikini T 
Teamwork S 
Very Inconvenient S 
Warm-up 1 T 
White-Faced Man S 
Yosemite Crack T 

Aus der Traum 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: EB & DS, '00
Season: north facing
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: greg k on Feb 17, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Bolts Are Failing! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

pull a couple of cruxy moves at the start before ledging out about 15 ft up. continue through blocky section for another 15 ft before enjoying laybacks and jams on flakes to the anchors. gear is plentiful: would be safe trad lead for novice. we did the variation start on the right. left start is easier according to guidebook. (bolts mar the aesthetic of an otherwise pretty weakness…)

Location 

dragon boat wall just left of yosemite crack

Protection 

nothing bigger than a red camalot. use same anchor as for yosemite crack.
316 steel (2012)


Comments on Aus der Traum Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

You can start this route from Teamwork and step right, from Yosemite Crack and step left, or boulder straight up the bolt line to the ledge (5.10+).

Continue straight up the obvious hand crack (10-). The long diamond-shaped flake near the top is completely detached, but is wedged into the crack. Don't place gear in it and it should be fine.
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Oct 5, 2014

Aus Der Traum - "The Dream is Over"