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Aurora Blues 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brad Smith
Page Views: 1,106
Submitted By: jbak on Mar 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Eric trying not to blow his onsight - he didn't.


Vertical arete wandering onto face.


Left side of Obscure Rock is a bolted arete. The route starts on the left side of the arete and wanders around to the right. First route left of MASK.



Photos of Aurora Blues Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Geir getting ready to slide a nut on the first bol...
Geir getting ready to slide a nut on the first bol...

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By Brad Parsifal Smith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Apr 16, 2010

This route is really called Aurora Blues. I established the route and finished with lowering anchors at the point where the good climbing stopped. Chris climbed a crumbly, ledgy, and downright ugly additional 20 ft that I felt distracted from the quality of the climb. The otherwise flawless guidebook author felt that Chris' contribution of garbage to an otherwise nice little climb warranted a re-naming of my route. I disagree. I suggest you do Aurora Blues and forget the cake-walk after the arete.

Please refer the the route as Aurora Blues.
By jbak
Apr 16, 2010

Brad, I did it your way (I think) and thought it was good. I can edit the name and put you (and whoever else) as FA if you think that's appropriate. I don't know whether I lifted the name from EFR's guide or from Chris back when I climbed with him.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 16, 2010

Hey Pars, nice to see you are still alive. I haven't heard a thing about you in years. I had no idea you did the FA of the route. All I heard was that Chris had done it. The last little bit is sort of fun and it makes you think a little about blowing the redpoint or breaking an ankle. Maybe Chris renamed it for fhe the extension like Sharma and Realization. Aurora Blues with the OBB extension. Just kidding. Are you still bowhunting? That is all I do in the fall through January.
By Brad Parsifal Smith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Apr 16, 2010

Thanks, guys. I thought it was clear what Chris had done. I appreciate your efforts.
By jbak
Apr 16, 2010

So Brad...any other names to go on FA list ? Date ?

Hey, I thought you took my ribbing on the Lessons page pretty well !
By Brad Parsifal Smith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Apr 16, 2010

There is nothing anyone can say that I don't deserve. It's all good laughs, in the end.

Sorry, I can't remember who belayed me (I was notorious for corrupting young climbers and imposing belay-slave duties on them). If I remember rightly, Jason Mullins and Moema Clark were with me the day I pointed the route.

No idea on the date. Last century, though. Man, it's scary to be able to say that ... and even scarier to feel it! You understand :)
By jbak
May 14, 2010

Here's one for you Brad... not only was I climbing in the last century... I was BORN in the FIRST HALF of the last century ! (by 2 months)
By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
Dec 4, 2010

The start is a little funky, awkward, with so so rock. After the first 15 feet or so things definitely improve with fun, thin and technical climbing. Definitely worth doing.

I agree with Brad on the top however. Once you finish the arete, you can sit down and get a full recovery on the ledge before you have the fire a somewhat tricky finish. The finish isn't too bad, but falling would probably suck, and the ledge rest really messes up the flow. I of course used the rest liberally on my attempt, well because not using it would be silly.

As of 12/03/10 the first bolt has no hanger.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 5, 2010

CONGRATULATIONS to "Canada" Eric Ruljancich for nailing his first 5.12 onsight on this climb on December 3rd. A real inspiration to watch. Nice work Eric!!!!
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 16, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The hanger has been restored thanks to Jimbo.

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