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Auntie M T 
Festoon T 
Hatari  T 
Psycho Bitch S 
Ruby Shoes T 
Secret Lover T 
Tik Tok T 
Toto T 
Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 
True Grit T 
Trusting Aborigines  S 
Unknown T 

Auntie M 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: David Whitelaw, David Freeman, 1988
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Mat Brunton on Jun 24, 2016

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After ~20' in the Toto 5.8 crack start trending right along a two bolt line toward the small cave. Watch for a big, loose block in the cave, which would make for a good hand or foot hold but isn't trustworthy and could crush your belayer if it fails while leading. Follow the crack trending up and right out of the small cave feature. As the right-trending crack becomes more vertical, this route gets more interesting: start strategizing for your ascent up and slightly left towards the anchor station midway up Toto's second pitch. There's likely more than one option for doing this, but this section gets spicy as it's dirtier and can get run out.

This route is definitely worthwhile, and would improve greatly with more traffic and some cleaning. It's one of many fun options for starting your way up Toto.


Starts in the same crack as Toto, which is just left of the Garvey plaque.


2 bolts, gear to 3", 2 bolt anchor. Some cam doubles recommended as this is a long route.

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By Mat Brunton
Jun 24, 2016

If I remember correctly, even with a 70m rope you'll have to rappel to the anchor station at the top of Toto's first pitch to get back to the ground (i.e. two rappels or double rope rappel required).

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