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Auerbacher Weg  

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Wolfgang Gullich 1981
Page Views: 26
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 20, 2014

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Auerbacher Weg follows the meandering chalk line a...

Description 

This unassuming turret of limestone is one of the more memorable 7’s in the Krottenseer region. Something about the carpet of deep green moss, the canopy of trees, and the geometry of the cliff give this line a magical feel. The climbing is thoughtful and engaging, and while consistently sustained, it is never terribly difficult. This is about as good as Grade 7 Frankenjura climbing gets.

Begin with a tough and somewhat polished boulder problem on incut pockets to clear the low bulge. Weave between patches of beautiful moss and the occasional hanging plant, following the path of least resistance up the steep slab. As the wall steepens, the holds grow, resulting in a glorious stretch of jug hauling as the line traverses up the leaning prow.

Location 

On the far left end of Maximilianswand, this is the first legitimate looking rock climb right of the back side of the Krottenseer tower.

Protection 

6 bolts to anchor.


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