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Auburn SRA

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"Bare" Rock 
Bar, The 
Cave Valley (aka Auburn Quarry) 

Auburn SRA Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.91195, -121.03511 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Jul 14, 2016
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Closes at dusk, and most parking areas are self-paid MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Auburn State Recreation Area holds scattered boulders and small rocky walls tucked amid a maze of rivers, canyons and dirt tracks in the Gold Country foothills.

Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website for current general information.

Getting There 

Auburn SRA is between and conveniently near the city of Auburn and the town of Cool along the Golden Chain Highway, route 49. Most people visiting here drive from interstate 80, and exit in Auburn.

This page marks the location of the Quarry Trailhead parking, which is the quickest (paid) parking lot for Cave Valley, the main roped climbing area.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.6 miles from here

100 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',46],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',6],['5.10',19],['5.11',19],['5.12',8],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',10],['V4-5',11],['V6-7',10],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Auburn SRA

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Auburn SRA:
M+M   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Scale Wall
WMD's and Tinker Toys   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Twin Towers
Scooby Snacks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Scale Wall
Golden Guns   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Scale Wall
Short Term Memory   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Memorial Wall
Comfortably Dumb   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Horseshoe Canyon
Uncomfortably Dumb   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Horseshoe Canyon
Sneaky   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Memorial Wall
Hunger Pains   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Wreckage Wall
Vacavillain   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Horseshoe Canyon
Goldfingers (aka Scale Wall)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Scale Wall
Ticks Dig Me   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Wreckage Wall
Howler Monkey   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Wreckage Wall
Let's Roll   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Twin Towers
Bionic Bitch Slap   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Wreckage Wall
Destructomatic   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Wreckage Wall
Release the Lions   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Twin Towers
Das Rads   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Twin Towers
Human Oddity   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Horseshoe Canyon
Bat Karma   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... : Horsepoo Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Auburn SRA

Featured Route For Auburn SRA
Rock Climbing Photo: Human Oddity 5.12a Auburn.  One of the, if not THE...

Human Oddity 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Horseshoe Canyon
To find this climb, look into Horseshoe Canyon. You will see bolted routes on the right-hand wall (extending back towards the "horseshoe"). This climb follows the leftmost set of bolts on that wall.This climb has a little bit of everything. Start with an easy jug haul to a roof section involving an interesting, slopey hole. Continue, and enjoy a slabby/crimpy section followed by more vertical and overhung fun.There are primarily two difficult sections on this climb: the roof leading from the...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Auburn SRA Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The same limestone formation as the quarry.
BETA PHOTO: The same limestone formation as the quarry.

Comments on Auburn SRA Add Comment
Show which comments
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
May 12, 2017
Went to hike out to [the crag across the river from the quarry] for a scoping sesh and there was a sign posted on the access trail "No Technical Climbing"...Hopefully C.R.A.G.S or someone can chime in if climbing is officially "no go" here. Saw some Turkey Vultures chilling on the summit, but it not an appropriate nesting site (easy access to summit for predators).

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