Auburn Ice Canyon Rock Climbing
Auburn Ice Canyon.
Auburn Ice Canyon is one of the few areas in the state that consistently forms up and is a convenient spot to get in some laps if you can't make the drive up to New Hampshire. Given the short approach, ease of setting up top ropes, and proximity to Boston, it can get quite crowded on the weekends and is popular with outdoor clubs. Routes can be up to almost 100' in length and can be led or toproped, but if leading, keep in mind that some climbs have interesting topouts. Plan on bringing long slings/extra cord for top rope anchors. The condition of the floor of the canyon can be pretty variable and make some routes difficult to climb.
Routes are ordered left to right as you are facing the concrete tunnel at the end of the canyon.
Located off of Route 20 (take exit 10a if coming West on 90 from Boston), there are two approaches to the climbing area.
The traditional approach (which I have never used personally) is to park in the parking lot at the intersection of Route 20 and Greenwood St. and then walk down the drainage ditch. In the past, there have been access issues between climbers and the local businesses with using this approach.
Recently a sports complex has been built north of the canyon and offers parking with a 10 minute hike in. To reach this head north on Greenwood St from Route 20, take a left on Upland and make a left into the athletic fields (right next to Pakachoag Church). On the far end of the soccer fields is a trail leading off into the woods. At some point you will come to an intersection (take a left) and eventually pass through the open section in the fence. The top of the drainage/canyon is a few hundred feet further. Rap in or hike down canyon a little ways to walk in.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 4.7 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Auburn Ice Canyon
The Special Vent
: Auburn Ice Canyon
The Special Vent is located at the end of the canyon and is one of the longer routes consisting of a series of shorter steps. Its difficulty varies greatly depending on if you climb straight up the curtain over the tunnel or stem up one of the corners. It is usually pretty fat, but some sections get a lot of sun.The base of this route is usually one of the last spots on the floor of the canyon to freeze up which can make belaying from the bottom difficult....[more] Browse More Classics in MA
By Russ Keane
May 30, 2016
Ah yes, the life saver that is Auburn Ice Canyon. This place RULES.