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Auburn Court 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Hammond, Dougald MacDonald
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 898
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Apr 13, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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  • Description 

    This is just a variation to Auburn Lane, but it turns a half-star route into 1.5 stars, with a second 5.10 crux and more good climbing.

    Climb Auburn Lane through its crux finger crack (about 5.10c) and up the fun corner to a roof. The normal route climbs over this roof and ends abrubtly in a chossy gully. To do Auburn Court, crank over a bulge immediately left of the roof via hand jams (5.10a or b), then continue up the sweet hand crack past a tree. Hand traverse to the rright under a block, along a finger crack, to reach the top. This adds about 30-35 feet of high-quality climbing and takes the route right to the summit of Fin III.

    By the way, you can do this entire route in one pitch with a 60-meter rope.

    Protection 

    Standard Eldo rack.


    Comments on Auburn Court Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By M. Morley
    Administrator
    From: Sacramento, CA
    Apr 28, 2007

    Definitely the best finish to Auburn Lane. Watch for rope drag if linking with Auburn Lane as a single 150' pitch.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Mar 13, 2011

    Two #3 Camalots are useful on this one.
    By Ben Burnett
    From: Colorado
    May 29, 2011
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Fun, I think it goes left at the top block (as shown in the pic). It didn't seem harder than the first pitch of Auburn.

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