REI Community
search
Advanced
Cadillac Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Auburn Court T 
Auburn Lane T 
Black Face S 
Brand New Cadillac S 
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 
Deviant T 
Easy Street T 
Emission Control T 
Escalade T 
Evening Stroll T 
Flash Cadillac TR 
Ghetto Cruiser T 
Gonzo T 
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 
Highway of Diamonds T 
Highway Of Ra T 
Ichiban Arete T 
Land of Ra T,S 
Let it Vee T 
Midnight Trundler T,TR 
Moonlight Drive T 
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 
Stargate T 
Trail of Tears S 
Twistoflex T 
Untitled, The S 
V3 T 
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 

Auburn Court 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Hammond, Dougald MacDonald
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 878
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Apr 13, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Near the top.

Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is just a variation to Auburn Lane, but it turns a half-star route into 1.5 stars, with a second 5.10 crux and more good climbing.

Climb Auburn Lane through its crux finger crack (about 5.10c) and up the fun corner to a roof. The normal route climbs over this roof and ends abrubtly in a chossy gully. To do Auburn Court, crank over a bulge immediately left of the roof via hand jams (5.10a or b), then continue up the sweet hand crack past a tree. Hand traverse to the rright under a block, along a finger crack, to reach the top. This adds about 30-35 feet of high-quality climbing and takes the route right to the summit of Fin III.

By the way, you can do this entire route in one pitch with a 60-meter rope.

Protection 

Standard Eldo rack.


Comments on Auburn Court Add Comment
Show which comments
By M. Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 28, 2007

Definitely the best finish to Auburn Lane. Watch for rope drag if linking with Auburn Lane as a single 150' pitch.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Mar 13, 2011

Two #3 Camalots are useful on this one.
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
May 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun, I think it goes left at the top block (as shown in the pic). It didn't seem harder than the first pitch of Auburn.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About