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Gold Bar Tower
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Au-Spice T 
Fort Knox T 
South Face 

Au-Spice 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Evan Deis
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: Evan Deis on Feb 24, 2017

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the wide crack on the west side of the Tower. The hardest climbing is right off the ground. Slightly overhanging soft rock split by 5-8 inch crack. An old style 5 probably would have worked well here. The angle eases from here and the crack gradually widens to ~ 12 inches before the traverse out left. Climb a suspicious, totem-like, pile of rock and finish in a comfortable yet unprotected chimney. Belay from the chimney. Double rope rap Fort Knox.

Protection 

.75,3,4,5,(3x)6,9,12, a double length sling for the boulder before the traverse.


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By Evan Deis
Feb 24, 2017

If anyone knows the FA details of this route please send them over and I will update the route description.

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