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The Riviera
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandonment T 
Au Natural T 
Beach Bum T,S,TR 
Birthday Suit T,S,TR 
Bosch Blanket Bingo S 
Chouette T,S 
Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
Le Nouveau Riche Variation T,TR 
Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
Silver Glide S 
Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 

Au Natural 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dan Hare, Susan Simpson, 1995
Page Views: 3,219
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Nov 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Simon at the top.

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  • Description 

    This is the sixth route from the left. Au Natural climbs the left-most of the two dihedrals on the Riviera (the right dihedral being Devin's Dihedral) which separates the five short routes on the left from the rest of the crag. The bottom 2/3 of the route takes good pro, but it's a little run out up top. Interesting moves right off the ground using a combination of face, chimney, and stemming moves.

    Once you reach the top of the dihedral, there are a couple of options:

    Option 1: Place a #2 Camalot for a directional, then traverse right to anchors above Devin's Dihedral. This is easier, but have some one second the route to clean it; the anchor placement makes it difficult to clean on rappel.

    Option 2: Continue up and left to the anchors above Seabreeze and The Minstrel. This increases the run out, but offers a more direct line from the anchors.

    If you hauled your gear up with you to climb some of the mixed routes, you might as well do this one before you leave.

    Protection 

    Light rack up to a #2 Camalot.


    Photos of Au Natural Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Simon starts up Au Natural.
    Simon starts up Au Natural.

    Comments on Au Natural Add Comment
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    By Cody Munger
    From: Carson City, NV
    Oct 3, 2005
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I brought my gear so I could avoid the lines on a weekend. Nobody on this route for some reason. Couldn't figure it out. I chose to finish left on the face climbing. You can get a couple decent stopper placements below the face climbing, but sport climbers may find it too run out. The climbing really isn't very hard from the last stopper placement to the bolt on the face, so I wasn't worried about a big fall.
    By Charles Danforth
    From: L'ville, CO
    Apr 16, 2006

    Nice route though I'm not sure I'd call it a solid 5.8. Maybe the top part. Unfortunately, I got suckered into continuing up the dihedral to the roof and then traversing left to a bolt. Gear is pretty thin up there and it was mighty dicey. Still a nice route with easy access to the anchors for Sea Breeze and The Minstrel. I'd definitely do it again.
    By Kevin Craig
    Apr 11, 2010
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Another option is to climb up to the right, place the #2 Camalot on a double-length sling then down-climb a bit and do the traverse left to the anchors above Minstrel. Good edges for the feet, but a bit balance-y and difficult/impossible to protect the second on the traverse. Felt like 7+ or 8 for a move or two done this way (BoCan grades; 5.6 in Eldo ;^).
    By Addison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 19, 2012
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Fun moves near the bottom. There is a perma-cam at the bottom of the route that feels like it would hold an elephant. first 6-7 moves are the crux which consists of stemming and body shimmering. gets easier as you go up. gets a little runout at the top.
    By Hiro Kurotsuchi
    From: Colorado
    May 23, 2013

    Fun climb, fun moves to expose your sport climbers to. You can finger and hand jam in some places if desired.

    Instead of having a follower, I set it as a TR, with a directional over the main part of the climb and then some pieces on the traverse. Found a pocket to put a #3 in just before the traverse. TRs need to walk back over to reclip pieces for next climber - it is easy terrain at the top to do this. I'm describing the up and right option here. A 60m rope handles this setup just fine - this puts the belay far right of the start, under the anchor.
    By Rick Vermeil
    From: Erie, CO
    Mar 10, 2014
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Very different, in a good way, from the rest of The Riviera. Great stemming up the dihedral with good gear and easy placement stances. I used 3 TCUs from #2-4, 5 medium nuts, and a BD #0.75. My buddy climbed it only placing nuts, but I would not recommend that. I traversed right to the anchors above Devin's Dihedral but will come back and take the harder finish straight up to the anchors for the two 5.11s to the left. Looked like there was OK gear there and definitely good holds up to the ledge. As Hiro ^^^ said, there is a small pocket that takes a #3 TCU if you choose to go right across the traverse. It is not a great placement but gives you a little comfort as you side step across the easy ledge.
    By Sam Sala
    From: Denver, CO
    Mar 23, 2015

    Climbed this 03/22/15...finished to left per option 2. I opted out of using the bolt. Instead, plugged a yellow TCU at top of corner (maybe 10' shy of option 1 chains) just right/below the roof then made traverse at base of roof block (2 moves thin fingers and small ledge/smear feet, then a short jug haul to the chains)...definitely added some spice with the runout and possibility of a pendulum back into the corner below. IMO traverse felt like easy 9, but might give it an R for the fall.
    By Mitchell Hall
    Nov 16, 2016
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I didn't read the route beta therefore had a hard time deciding which way to go. I traversed left to the last bolt on "Minstrel". Worked good for me.
    By Spencer Dyck
    From: Lone Tree, CO
    Feb 2, 2017

    Just climbed on Monday Jan. 30th 2017, great lead with fun moves in the dihedral at the beginning. The runout is a little hairy near the top, but there are solid holds so nothing to serious. I traversed to the right anchors, and about 10-15 feet from the anchor I used 2 small nuts to create a horizontal oppositional placement which really put my mid at ease (maybe overkill maybe not). Great climb, sustained 5.7 the whole way.

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