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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mike Call
Page Views: 735
Submitted By: Jeremy Noring on Aug 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Doesn't climb as slabby as it looks


This route pulls a series of bulges via crimps and tiny crimps to the ½ way mark. After a brief rest, continue to top on easier, but still technical terrain. One bolt (3 or 4) is tricky to hang/might be dangerous if one fell clipping.


Immediately to the right of Reloaded, on the left side of the north wall


Bolts to fixed anchors

Photos of ATV Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Turnbo in the initial crux. Adam Griffith b...
Andrew Turnbo in the initial crux. Adam Griffith b...

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By SM Ryan
Aug 21, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

A change of bolt location would be a good idea. When working this route, I took the fall once and with an attentive belayer it was OK, but I used a double draw to avoid that fall again.
By Kipp Schorr
Feb 23, 2015
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I wasn't sure about this route after hearing about strange bolt placement/weird fall. Found it to be very straight forward crimping and wasn't uncomfortable at all. Where is this bad fall potential? Fun rock climbing on really good rock though!
By SM Ryan
Mar 18, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Not sure about the bolt. Maybe it was moved since 2008 when I RPed it. I just added it as a tick last year since it was a new route on MP. A double draw solved the issue for me than since I could clip one move lower (but I am 5'1" so someone taller could use this hold normally).

This route supposedly went at 13c originally. I guess it is getting easier.
By slcpunk
Mar 20, 2016
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

It was mistakenly written as 13c in James Garretts guidebook. I rated it 13a when I did it. I got on it again last year and I don't think the bolts have been moved.

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