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Attila's Thumb

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Mogul Emperor T 

Attila's Thumb Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 330'
Page Views: 1,088
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 9, 2009
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One of the many awesome overlook views.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This is a tower on the east end of Mitten Butte. It offers grand adventure in an amazing setting.

Getting There 

The tower is best accessed via rappels from the rim above. The tower is visible to the east from the Canyonlands Overlook. Turn off HWY. 191 as if you are going to the needles overlook. After something like 18 miles turn right toward the Anticline Overlook. Then turn left toward the Canyonlands Overlook. This last road is pretty good, I was able to get my Subaru Impreza to within about a mile of the overlook. Once at the overlook hike toward the thumb along the rim to the point. Three rappels gets you to the ground. There are bolts on the Northwest corner of the point for the first rappel. Not sure if there are more bolted rappels directly below the first since we opted to rappel the slabby south side of the point so the jug back out would be easier. Hike to the tower.

Climbing Season

For the Moab Area area.

Weather station 13.2 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Attila's Thumb

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Attila's Thumb:
Mogul Emperor   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 330'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Attila's Thumb

Featured Route For Attila's Thumb
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Kiessel standing on the rim near the Canyonlan...

Mogul Emperor 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13  Utah : Moab Area : ... : Attila's Thumb
DR IV says that this route goes at 5.11-. I did not do the moves free but I would guess more like 5.12ish. This route is not for everyone, Brad thought is sucked, I thought it was awesome.Pitch one:Start up the loose crack system on the south face of the tower. Pass a small roof on hand jams about 20' off the ground, continue on broken cracks to a two pin belay at a stance below a big roof. We broke this pitch up in to two because of bad rope drag. A #6 camalot is very helpful at the top...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Attila's Thumb Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Attlia's Thumb, Mitten Butte, and their shadows in...
Attlia's Thumb, Mitten Butte, and their shadows in...

Comments on Attila's Thumb Add Comment
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By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 29, 2010
Does the Mitten Butte have any routes on it?
By Ben Kiessel
Jan 30, 2010
Yes. At least two, one of which is supposed to be 5 stars.

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