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Attending to MILD rope damage
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May 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Ocnj
This post may demonstrate my ignorance, so let me get this out of the way: no, I don't climb nearly as hard as you or your girlfriend or your mom. And yes, of course I'll send the rope to you for inspection! I'll throw in my rack too so you can test that out too.

Now down to business. I noticed some rope damage about 15ft into a 9.4mm 60m rope. The rope is about a year old and has only a couple light sport falls and one trad fall. It's been used for top roping on probably ~20-25 outings.

imgur.com/RvInLPN
imgur.com/Ihfh9ZP

I noticed this damage to the sheath today and am not sure how it came about but am nearly certain it wasn't from a fall. As you can see, a few strands of the weave are cut. If you pull/push the fuzz outta the way I believe I can juuuust see the core.

I know today it's fine to climb on. But what do I need to do to make sure that's the case as long as possible and how do I know when it's no longer safe? Other than making sure my partner is tying in to that end, any other recommendations/advice?

Thanks!
JRZane
Joined Dec 20, 2015
87 points
May 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping down after climbing Shantytown Swing(5.6) ...
If the core is showing I would cut it out. That's just me. Lou Cerutti
From Carlsbad, California
Joined Jan 1, 2014
217 points
May 20, 2016
First the good news: There are thousands of climbs that you can do with a 55 meter rope. The bad news: There are some climbs (and a lot of rappels) that require a longer rope. gjmike
From grand junction
Joined Dec 26, 2012
5 points
May 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: The dangler
If the core is showing just chop it. It;s a bummer to do, but better to be safe. I had to chop a few meters off a brand new Helix after the first day out from a sharp edge. Andrewww
From Concord, NH
Joined Mar 19, 2014
527 points
May 20, 2016
Chop it

- dont TR on a 9.4 mm, get an el cheapo ~10mm for that

- get a 70m so when you chop it itll likely still be 60m

;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
3,068 points
May 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Wunsch's Dihedral
Just take a lighter and lightly singe the frays. Good ass new. Don Ferris
From Eldorado Springs
Joined Nov 27, 2012
143 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
Use your best judgement and trust your gut feeling. It looks fine from the pictures, but I would want to see in person and feel it before I trusted it. If you continue use, I would suggest throwing a wrap of tape around that spot. eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
422 points
May 21, 2016
Please don't interpret this as me being argumentative or starting MP thread fights. But I'd like to respectfully disagree with the last two posters.
1. Pretty sure the lighter comment was a joke, and that's cool. But just making sure the OP knows that too.
2. I would not tape it because you would be concealing a damaged, weak point in the rope from sight, when I believe it would be safer to be able to visually inspect it.
Doug S
From W Pa
Joined Apr 14, 2012
45 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Wunsch's Dihedral
Doug S wrote:
Please don't interpret this as me being argumentative or starting MP thread fights. But I'd like to respectfully disagree with the last two posters. 1. Pretty sure the lighter comment was a joke, and that's cool. But just making sure the OP knows that too. 2. I would not tape it because you would be concealing a damaged, weak point in the rope from sight, when I believe it would be safer to be able to visually inspect it.



It was indeed a joke. Probably never a good idea to apply fire to the middle of a piece of plastic designed to save your life.
Don Ferris
From Eldorado Springs
Joined Nov 27, 2012
143 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: kramer
When in doubt throw it out. The fact that you had to post here says you are in doubt. I certainly wouldnt want to tie in on that rope, and whoever mentioned taping it, now youre hiding it from any other climber you climb with. Not good. Hobo Greg
Joined Mar 30, 2016
64 points
May 21, 2016
Hobo Greg wrote:
When in doubt throw it out. The fact that you had to post here says you are in doubt. I certainly wouldnt want to tie in on that rope, and whoever mentioned taping it, now youre hiding it from any other climber you climb with. Not good.


Hobo Greg wrote:
I'm a new climber (less than 2 years) , have only climbed outside, and take Leave No Trace to heart (have gotten LNT Master Educatorbtraining). I for one would love to be a part of the "climbers as stewards" idea. Show me how to replace bolts, I'd love to help.


For a relatively new climber, you give a lot of advice.
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
284 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Ocnj
Hobo Greg wrote:
When in doubt throw it out. The fact that you had to post here says you are in doubt. I certainly wouldnt want to tie in on that rope, and whoever mentioned taping it, now youre hiding it from any other climber you climb with. Not good.



Just because I'm asking a question regarding management of damage does not mean I'm in doubt of the entire ropes integrity. Tossing the entire rope is just foolish. But thanks for your considerations.

I'll certainly consider chopping it down and using it for shorter climbs. I've got a family friend whom I just learned is coming into town next weekend and who's been climbing quite a long time. While I appreciate the advice in the thread (some more than other (joke!)), it'll be nice to have someone finger it a bit and give me some recommendations.
JRZane
Joined Dec 20, 2015
87 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: kramer
JRZane wrote:
Just because I'm asking a question regarding management of damage does not mean I'm in doubt of the entire ropes integrity. Tossing the entire rope is just foolish. But thanks for your considerations. I'll certainly consider chopping it down and using it for shorter climbs. I've got a family friend whom I just learned is coming into town next weekend and who's been climbing quite a long time. While I appreciate the advice in the thread (some more than other (joke!)), it'll be nice to have someone finger it a bit and give me some recommendations.


Whats more foolish, tossing a rope thats between $150-300, or splattering onto the rocks? Anyway, like you said, you dont even have to ditch the rope, just chop it. Dont think of climbing gear as anything permanent. Its all disposable, can all be replaced. What cant be replaced is your body and your mind should your gear fail, when it could have been prevented. If theres truly no cause for concern, thats one thing, but then again, why would you have to post here if there wasnt anything to be concerned about?
Hobo Greg
Joined Mar 30, 2016
64 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Ocnj
Again Greg, my question was focused on caring for a rope that has a little sheath damage. If your contribution is saying to chop it or throw it out, then I've already thanked you for that perspective. Perhaps others, who have been climbing more than a couple seasons, have had some experience and would be willing to share.

Going back and forth about "if you have to ask, you might as well just quit" mentality is neither enjoyable nor informative. If you've got something else to add relates to caring for a rope with some sheath damage, I'm all ears.

Sorry if I sound condescending, don't mean it that way. HAPPY climbing!
JRZane
Joined Dec 20, 2015
87 points
Administrator
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: OMG!
That's not core. Core is twisted strands which run parallel to the rope.
A very good lesson i was taught early on, and take to heart, is is it worth the nagging doubt in the back of your mind when you are making that sketch move, "Is this rope/gear/sling/draw/whatever going to hold me"?
Retire the old soft goods, inspect the dropped gear, chop the damaged rope.
I dropped a 200# chockstone from a chimney onto a brand new, unused, unclimbed on 70m rope. I swore like a sailor, and had a brand new 57m rope.
Your call; I'd chop it.
Muscrat
Joined Oct 27, 2011
3,553 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
Lou Cerutti wrote:
If the core is showing I would cut it out. That's just me.

+1

Seeing the core is bad. Owning a shorter rope than you did yesterday isn't great, but isn't the worst thing ever.

I also agree with other posters here, get a thicker rope for tope roping, it will last longer. 10-10.2 are great work horse sizes. I use something in that range for %90+ of my climbing and never have a problem. Skinny ropes come out For something near at my limit (on lead, if you're working out the moves on toprope before leading it use a fatty for durability), or something I have to schlep the thing a long way before climbing with it.

My $.02
JK-
From SLC
Joined Nov 3, 2012
21 points
May 21, 2016
Looks good to me. Billcoe
Joined Mar 16, 2006
618 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: At the BRC
Hobo Greg wrote:
I'm a new climber (less than 2 years) , have only climbed outside


FrankPS wrote:
For a relatively new climber, you give a lot of advice.


Hobo's "wisdom" rivals NESteve's.

Is there some toxic fume exuded by new Camalots that makes some novice trad climbers judgmental, intolerant and self-important?

And for the OP, I think it's pretty hard to offer advice about your rope without seeing it in person.
That being said, if it does have a core shot, I'd chop that end.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
517 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me trying to FA Solomon Grundy
Just another perspective, in case you don't have enough.

I had a brand new 9.6, and stupidly tried out my new tibloc on it. I partially weighted it before the teeth engaged, dragging the sharp teeth over all the strands of a two inch spot. After careful inspection, I decided the core had not been compromised, and the sheath was plenty intact, so I wasn't gonna cut it.

However, EVERYONE that ties into my rope makes a comment about it and questions it, and when I'm shaking out at a bolt, the fuzzy part is right in my face. I know my rope is fine, but even still, it gives me the occasional pause. So if you don't cut it, be prepared to live with that internal and external doubt.
EthanC
Joined Jun 17, 2013
287 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Cams above the arm bar moves on Three Pigs in a Sl...
That's about the same damage my year-old rope had (which I just retired). I climbed on it a couple more times and decided that was close enough.

While it appears that the core is not compromised, the loss of the cross-weave in the sheath may more easily expose the core to dirt and other elements.

It's your call, but with climbing gear, better safe than sorry.

A shorter rope makes a great gym rope!
Charlie S
From Ogden, UT
Joined Aug 23, 2007
1,509 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Epic belay shot
^^^ the fuzzy part is staring me in the face. Yes. There's no way to fix it, it's a heart breaker to cut a rope but for our modern safety conscious seat belt wearing cam placing ethos, cutting is the normative choice ;) Medic741
From Red Hook, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
288 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Ocnj
While I still plan on seeking in-person consultation, the location in question is 12.5' from one end. So making a 200' rope a 187.5' rope isn't disaster....100' max pitch is now a 90' max pitch. JRZane
Joined Dec 20, 2015
87 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me eating a cliff bar walking back from Frankenste...
JRZane wrote:
While I still plan on seeking in-person consultation, the location in question is 12.5' from one end. So making a 200' rope a 187.5' rope isn't disaster....100' max pitch is now a 90' max pitch.


Just remember that 100 foot rappel is going to be close to the ends. Watch your ends and be sure they're close to or on the ground.
Bill Kirby
From Baltimore Maryland
Joined Jul 21, 2012
439 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: kramer
Mark E Dixon wrote:
Hobo's "wisdom" rivals NESteve's. Is there some toxic fume exuded by new Camalots that makes some novice trad climbers judgmental, intolerant and self-important? And for the OP, I think it's pretty hard to offer advice about your rope without seeing it in person. That being said, if it does have a core shot, I'd chop that end.


Its not rocket science. If someone says the core is showing, I dont need to have been climbing for a decade to know what that means. And this certainly isnt about ME specifically. If the OP didnt want opinions, he wouldnt have posted on a public forum. We're all entitled to have our say here. I'll never lie about my experience just to sound more credible, rather, just let what I say speak for itself. I could cite endless credible sources as to what to do when the core of the rope is showing. None of us have access to the rope to inspect it, but again, if someone says the core is showing, and its only 4 meters from the end? Maybe the core isnt exposed at all, I dont know because Im not there. But its the internet. We all get to ramble.
Hobo Greg
Joined Mar 30, 2016
64 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: At the BRC
Hobo Greg wrote:
blah, blah, blah, blah, blah blah


Fixed that for you
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
517 points
May 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: kramer
Mark E Dixon wrote:
Fixed that for you


Sweet, appreciate that.
Hobo Greg
Joined Mar 30, 2016
64 points


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