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A Touch of Tango T 
Angel's Arete T,TR 
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Zag T,TR 

A Touch of Tango 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kenny Parker, Blaze Davies 1988
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: Joseph DeGaetano on Sep 16, 2013

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Description 

This route climbs up the striking arete just to the right of Dresden Corner. You do the same start as Dresden, but past the roof with big horizontals, move right away from the corner to clip the route's only bolt. Make a tenuous and reachy step past the bolt to get established on the arete. Do a few bouldery arete moves to get to a stance where you might want to move onto the right side of the arete. Use delicate slab moves to continue up eventually reaching a cruxy exit section. Hold it together and resist bailing left into the Dresden finish. Use Dresden anchors.

Location 

Obvious arete to the rght of Dresden Corner, and left of Marionette.

Protection 

Cams up to 3". mostly finger to ring lock size placements. Long slings to manage rope drag. 1 bolt. Bolted anchor.


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