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2 Atomic Limbo
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Atomic Limbo  

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jean-Martin Vallières, September 2003
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: rocknice2 on May 22, 2014

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The big orange dihedral. Sustained climbing between great rests, excellent protection and a pumpy finish. One of the big classics here. Bring a big cam (Camalot 4) to protect the horizontal crack 8 meters off the deck.
Careful : 35m rappel

L’immense diedre orange. De l’escalade engageante entre bons repos, de l’excellente protection et une fin palpitante. Un grand classique du site. Apporter un gros mécanique (genre Camalot 4) pour protéger dans la grosse fissure horizontale à 8 mètres du sol.
Attention : rappel de 35m


natural pro and a BD Camalot #4

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By Luc
From: Montreal, Quebec
Aug 4, 2014

The first opportunity to protect (before the bolt) is in a big crack next to the cedar (Cam.#4 but other possibilities exist.) The orange corner offers a lot of opportunities for small protection. Before trying the black-and-white face above the ledge, go up one of the sides and protect high, so as to avoid a ledge fall. When you reach the end of the big corner, protect under the big roof and traverse off right to the belay.

Le premier endroit où protéger (avant la bolt) se trouve à gauche du cèdre, gros mécanique Cam. #4 mais d’autres possibilités existent. Le grand dièdre orange offre beaucoup d’options pour les petites et moyennes protections. Avant d’embarquer sur la face blanche et noire, essayer de protéger haut afin d’éviter une chute sur la vire. En arrivant à la fin du dièdre, protéger sous le gros toit et traverser à droite pour atteindre le relais. Félicitations!

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