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YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,188
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Jun 8, 2001  with updates from Eric Waag

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I think this is the start of Atalanta. Please let...

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  • Description 

    This is a short (by First Flatiron standards) 3-4 pitch route on the Southern side of the East face of the First.

    The quality of the rock is good although pro is not that easy to find.

    The route starts some 200 feet above (South) the start of Baker's Way. The start can be reached by staying on the trail between the First and the Second and looking for the next "easy" way to get on the face after Baker's Way.

    Look for and easy, broken groove that heads Northeast for some 30 feet.

    Climb the groove to a small ledge and head up a small dihedral with a small, East-facing ramp leading to a short steep face (crux). Roach mentions the existence of an old piton after the crux, but we either missed it or it was gone when we did the route.

    After the crux, you can either continue up the dihedral to a tree and then the North Arete, or you can move left onto the East face of the false summit. The latter option provides a cool but relatively unprotected face climb.

    From the North Arete, take a left and reach the summit in one pitch or less.

    Descent - rap down or downclimb the Southwest face.


    Standard Flatiron, small pieces.

    Photos of Atalanta Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: This is Atalanta.
    BETA PHOTO: This is Atalanta.

    Comments on Atalanta Add Comment
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    By Mark Oveson
    From: Louisville, Colorado
    Sep 6, 2006

    This is the best of the short routes high on the East Face of the First Flatiron. The crux is short and secure. A climb not to be missed.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 6, 2006

    The piton is still there, look carefully about 15 feet ABOVE the crux. It looks like someone bent it over with a hammer, you couldn't clip a biner into it. You could sling it with a runner, though.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Dec 1, 2013

    I did an interesting variation above the first tree. Head left to a ramp system that turns into a hanging dihedral. The ramp slowing disppears until the crux bulge (5.6). It is very exposed with good rock (poor pro).
    By Daniel H. Bryant
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Dec 7, 2014

    Entered onto this route at the large tree mid-way, we took Kamikaze straight up to it. We connected the top of the first 70m pitch of Kamikaze to the big tree via a 70m pitch. If you decide to try this, be careful cause there are weak/decomposing flakes along this pitch (easy climbing but sketchy rock), 2/3 along this pitch is a bulge, I went left and it felt 5.6ish, the right looked a bit harder.
    By Andres Fernandez
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jul 27, 2015
    rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

    Just to the right of Hubris, which I've never done.

    1st pitch goes up 4th class gully and then takes a left toward the first set of trees. You'll use half a rope length. 5.3. You can also just go directly up to the first tree and that's more 5.2 I'd say.

    2nd pitch follows the ramp/dihedral and could be 5.3. Not a lot of areas to place protection. That ends at the big tree. The crux is trying to place a small cam then surmount the bulge overhang, which is pretty iffy protection but the move is relatively straighforward.

    (Below: My variation from standard Atalanta for pitches 3 and 4.)

    3rd pitch is short, since there can be horrible rope drag if you go up and left to where you then downclimb (to the last part of Hubris) and then go to the last saddle before the top. I'd recommend going to just before down climbing where you can use slings to wrap around some bomber rock tubes (mini-arches).

    Standard route: you can go right too for the penultimate saddle. Seemed easier than going left.

    4th pitch takes you to the top, and I recommend stemming. You pass a tree and then get to easier terrain. Not great for placing protection either. This I'd classify as 5.4 for the smoothness and lack of protection choices.

    You can finish the 4th pitch by doing the 5.7 2-3 move mantle to the top right after getting to the saddle instead of taking the ramp 10 feet to the west.

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