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Astro Zombies 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 6 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: PD / SVS
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,673
Submitted By: gimpmonkey on Aug 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Psyched at the start of p2.

Description 

This is the first route on the Misfits Wall heading pretty much up the center. There are 2 easy sections of 4th class between pitches 1-2 and 2-3, the rest is fine, moderate quartzite climbing with an awesome 5.10 last pitch.

Pitch 1. 5.9. Start right of the pine tree at the base of Misfits Wall. Head for the A-frame break in the overlap above (crux). 6-7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor. Move belay over 4th class above to base of wall behind huge pine tree.

Pitch 2. 5.8+. Follow 6 bolts up amazing face. You can get an optional fingers to midsize cam midway.

Var. London Dungeon climbs the obvious, left-facing corner to the right. It is steep and awkward with powerful smearing. Face the wrong way, and it will feel like you've been put on the rack! 4 bolts, #0.5/0.75 Camalot.

Pitch 3. 5.4. Step out of belay nook, and go left towards the gully across slabs/corners with 1 bolt, then 4th Class up to large ledge system with rappel anchor on wall.

Pitch 4. 5.9. Start to the right of gully following 6 bolts up good rock. A finger cam after last bolt gets you up to a 2 bolt belay in V-slot.

Pitch 5. 5.9+. Mantel out of V slot, up across slab to bolts on wall. 4 bolts lead up through some shite rock and some good rock...it will get your attention. A finger cam protects after the bolts and leads up to 2 bolt anchor at the base of a ramp and the headwall.

Pitch 6. 5.10. Start up corner/ramp to the right placing wide hands/hands cams to reach 3 bolts on wall. Pure enjoyment follows as you surmount the headwall through the railroad tracks, but you gotta find the holds first! A finger cam over the lip, and a higher bolt gets you to the anchor on top.

Var. 5.7 R. Continue up ramp passing bolts, turn corner and continue back left to summit.

Rappel the route. A 60 meter rope can make all the rappels except down pitch 4, but you can step into the gully and downclimb if you need to. Be careful on the awkward sideways rap on pitch 3, especially in the rain.

Location 

Approach as for Waterfall Wall/Princess Ella's.... Continue past the start of PEMA 30 yds until you reach a fixed hand line. Head straight up above handline to big pine tree at the base of the rock and bolts.

Protection 

7-8 quickdraws and a few cams from fingers to #3 Camalot.


Photos of Astro Zombies Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Trout Man chilling while I try to find the way for...
Trout Man chilling while I try to find the way for...
Rock Climbing Photo: Grover Price enjoying the airy belay at last pitch...
Grover Price enjoying the airy belay at last pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: The last 3 pitches of Astro Zombies.
BETA PHOTO: The last 3 pitches of Astro Zombies.
Rock Climbing Photo: SEVS on pitch 4 of Astro Zombies.
SEVS on pitch 4 of Astro Zombies.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eggman on the 2nd pitch. London Dungeon behind.
Eggman on the 2nd pitch. London Dungeon behind.
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Astro Zombies.
First pitch of Astro Zombies.
Rock Climbing Photo: Astro Zombies on the Misfits Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Astro Zombies on the Misfits Wall.

Comments on Astro Zombies Add Comment
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By S.Mckinna
From: Cañon City, CO
Aug 29, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is a really fun route! I would only bring one blue, yellow, and orange TCU or equivalent and one #3 Camalot. It can comfortably be done without the cams too.
By Highlander
From: Ouray, CO
Sep 27, 2015

Some of the anchors could use a quicklink or two. Pitch 2 anchor could use one quic link, and pitch 5 anchor could use 2 quicklinks. Currently twists rope really badly when pulling rappels.

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