REI Community
(s) Monkey Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Astro Monkey T 
Backbone, The S 
East Face T 
Just Do It S 
Monkey Off My Back S 
Monkey Space S 
North Face, The T 
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 
Northwest Passage (Free) T 
Pioneer Route T,S 
Rising Expectations T 
Spank the Monkey S 
Spank The Monkey(Full) S 
West Face (Aid) T 
West Face Variation T 
West Face Variation Direct T 

Astro Monkey 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FFA of entire route A.Watts & C. Grover, 1983
Page Views: 7,004
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Leaving Bohn Street, moving toward the Head Cave.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Pitch 1: Sustained difficult face climbing on thin edges past three bolts gains a very thin crack and 1 more bolt to a small roof. Above the roof easy climbing leads to a two bolt anchor (11d).

Pitch 2: A steep finger crack for 12' leads to lower angle climbing and an anchor at the base of a left facing and slanting dihedral (5.9).

Pitch 3: Sustained 5.10 climbing in the dihedral (some fixed gear) leads to a bolt above a roof. Pull the roof (11a) and belay on a small ledge.

Pitch 4: This short pitch goes up a dihedral and right around a small roof to a large ledge (Bohn Street) (10-).

Pitch 5 and 6: Finish on Monkey Space (5.11).


This route begins at the base of the west side of the Monkey. Rappel down the east face of the Monkey from the summitt.


Gear to 2" and many quick draws.

Photos of Astro Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The corner on pitch 3.
The corner on pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Drake on the steep and clean portion of the ...
Steve Drake on the steep and clean portion of the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the west face cave after the crux on pi...
Just below the west face cave after the crux on pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the roof on the first pitch a few hundred ...
Nearing the roof on the first pitch a few hundred ...

Comments on Astro Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bob Graham
Jun 28, 2010

One of the best routes I have done at Smith, super classic. The anchor at the base of the 3rd pitch steep dihedral is old an mankey.
By ktaylor
From: Bay Area, CA
Jun 29, 2010

Yeah Bob!
By Jon Rhoderick
Jul 10, 2012

A superb climb I will climb again and again. The first pitch is slowly getting harder we found it to be stiff for 12a and the difficulties persist on gear. Second time round I tried moving in stereo as a start which I enjoyed much more. I recommend stick clipping (possibly with the crutches!) for the first bolt. The first bolt is some pebble pinching and then the climbing eases until a crux at the second to last bolt or so. Nic and I pulled the shitty bolts on P2&3 belay anchors but the bottom bolts of both starting pitches are very suspect 1/4" bolts with hard to clip hangers. I plan on upgrading these this fall but anyone is welcome to beat me to it!
By Mark Hudon
From: Lives on the road
Apr 8, 2014

An Excellent route. All the bolts are pretty modern and good as of 4/7/14.
By Stephen Sh
From: Portland
Oct 6, 2015

Climbed Astro Monkey via the Moving in Stereo start with Linda S. on 9/24. It’s a fantastic classic route, worth repeating. This was my second go and I’m already looking forward to a third. A few notes:

  • Gear: Mostly finger sizes. #1 camalot (red) was the largest piece I needed.

  • Bolts: As noted above, mostly new bolts and stainless hangers – thanks for the re-bolting! A few exceptions – anchor above the 5.7 blocks (P1) has one new stainless and two old bolts with a Leeper hanger and an aluminum hanger. Belay is easily backed up with gear. And one of the two bolts for the anchor at the lip of the head cave (start of P2 Monkey Space) has pulled out of the rock about an inch.

  • I tried the Southwest Corner Traverse (.11b) variation this time, exiting to the right after the diagonal crack but didn’t find it very interesting. Can’t recommend it.

  • Communication: Since the anchor for the final pitch is atop the monkey’s head, communication with the belayer in the head cave is difficult even thought the linear distance is short. It’s nearly impossible to hear each other when the wind is blowing. Good to work out non-verbal signals in advance.

Rock Climbing Photo: Bolts at the top of P1.
Bolts at the top of P1.
By Jon Rhoderick
Oct 8, 2015

Glad to see people enjoying the new bolts!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About