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Astro Boy 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Greg Kottcamp
Season: Winter
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: Ryan7crew on Mar 26, 2016

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Description 

The route originally was freed by Greg at 12d/13a, ad listed in the 2nd Dixie craggers. Upon repeat attempts a key foot broke in the crux, changing the rating to 12d/A0, according to the 3rd Dixie craggers. I called Watford and asked him what happened with the rating and that's what I was told, and it makes sense looking at the rock. Over a month or so one winter (2013?) myself, Ardian Prishtina, and Tim Maddox worked out and trained for the new beta. Ardian made a repeat right after me and confirmed the grade.
Step straight left off the ledge that White Lighting starts on. (Please build a mini anchor here to pull your ankles away from the ledge). Boulder up the technical, beta intensive thin seem to the powerful face crux when the seem disappears. Continue up the crack, traverse right, and up the beautiful corner to the bolted anchor.
It is possible to TR this route with some directionals. But cleaning while lowering is a pain in the ass. A medium size nut is helpful just for cleaning because it gives you something to hang on while digging out your mank cams. After blowing it on redpoint attempts we utilized a system of downfalling to clean the gear.

Location 

15 feet left of White Lightning. It's the impressively thin seem. You'll see it.

Protection 

Cams up to 3, with mandatory metolious 0 and 00 tcu's or equivalent to protect the crux.


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