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Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Forrest Kaye
Page Views: 295
Submitted By: ForrestKaye on Aug 11, 2014

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Description 

Extension for Morning Star. Continue up to the right past the Morning Star anchors. Follow a thin crack for 15 ft then traverse left and up through the final steep section. Easier climbing to a large ledge just below the rim. Use a 70 m rope to lower to the ground. Tie a knot in the end of the rope a 70 just reaches. (planning on moving the anchors down lower at some point....)

Location 

Lower with 70m rope or two raps with 60m using Morning Star anchor as intermediate.

Protection 

I added 3 bolts to the route. It seemed like a needed enhancement. Still bring .5 to protect the last move if the bolt just down the right of of you is too far away. Also a # 1 or 2 BD cam will protect the easy 5.7 scramble to the anchors.

If you want to do it all trad: Bring small nuts and cams to protect the lower section, a .5 purple BD fits nicely as you pull the last bulge at the crux.


Comments on Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) Add Comment
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By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 11, 2014

When Forrest says "70m just reaches" he really means it. Standing on the highest pedestal, both ends of a 70 hang at eye-height, and I'm 6'1"! Be very careful!
By James E King
From: Bend, OR
Apr 12, 2015

I second Matt's comment. We were using a rope that is technically 72 meters long and it still fell a few feet short. Having said that, there's no reason not to climb the route.
By ForrestKaye
Jul 26, 2015

Added 3 bolts to the route. Planing on lowering the anchors at some point. Stay tuned.

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