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The Beach, Right Side
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L to R R to L Alpha
Assume the Position S 
Crystal Voyage T 
Flotsam T 
Keelhauled T 
Lowest Common Denominator T 
Message In a Bottle T 
Riptide T 
Schrodinger's Cat T 
Shark Bait T 

Assume the Position 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darrell Hensel, Jonny Woodward
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Mar 6, 2013

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Description 

This route was established by climbers who placed the bolts on aid, and who did not free it. The pitch was later free climbed and the bolts in the upper half re-arranged so they followed the line and could be clipped on lead, without the crux being clipping the bolts.

Start by scambling up the right side of the pillar. Step back left and start clipping bolts. The bolts on the lower half were left as placed by the original party. Good climbing on good knobs characterizes the first half of the pitch. At about the halfway point the knobs thin down and start to peter out. Do somewhat thinner and enjoyable climbing past a few bolts. A final sequence to obtain the flake coming in from the right requires a little thought.


Location 

Far right side of the wall, at the top of the scree. Beneath the obvious pillar/flake.

Protection 

Bolts.


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By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
Apr 26, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I like this one, the odd start off the pillar for the first two bolts is best part of the climb. Agree with the description for the general nature of the climbing. The crux area is intense with two distinct hard places.